Malta - Zen

‘Please follow the instruction for Japanese traditional manner of sushi and tepan yaki.  If so you could be a connoisseur (= artist) in Japanese food’

These words appear on the opening page of the menu at Zen in Portomaso Marina, together with descriptions of sushi, sashimi, tepan yaki and tempura, and how these Japanese delights should be eaten.  Zen is clearly on a mission to introduce the delicate sophistication of Japanese cuisine to the Maltese pagans, or so this patronising approach would suggest.

We ordered saki, and sherry glasses were promptly delivered to the table.   Aren’t we supposed to have little bamboo shots or at least something which looks Japanese?  As I sipped chilled ‘gold’ saki from my ‘party glass’, it did not have quite the desired effect. It was more like a pre lunch aperitif with grandma.

The 14 piece sashimi, consisting of salmon, tuna and white fish, was very good and excellent value at 9 euros.  Perhaps it would have been a few euros more had it not been served on a plastic banana leaf.

The Japanese waitresses shot around the restaurant frenetically.  This camel’s experience of Japanese hosts is one of demure and elegant composure.  These girls were manic, like wild samurai frantically searching for their swords.

Tepan yaki was to follow.  The beef fillet was very good and at 25 euros, no one was complaining.

Malta’s introduction to Japanese cuisine is much more Benihana than Nobu, but are the Maltese taking to Zen’s indoctrination?

As one diner was presented with teriyaki chicken, was heard to ask,

“Where’s the ketchup?”

Perhaps not.

Zen
Portomaso Marina
St Julians
Malta

+356 21 386500