Newbury - The Yew Tree Inn

Marco Pierre White owns six of the slickest restaurants in London…and a pub near Newbury.  Indeed, if position is anything to go by, The Yew Tree Inn is currently the jewel in the MPW crown, as it heads the list of ‘The Complete Collection’ on his web site.

This 17th century Inn, close to Highclere Castle, was a well respected, intimate restaurant which enjoyed a strong local following until around 2005 when Mr White moved in.  Immediate changes were not drastic as regulars, anxious with a conflict of excitement and concern, fretted about the future of their cozy bolt-hole.

Lines of ‘City Slickers’ on long leather padded banquettes perhaps?  

What of those winter evenings on that little table by the fire, with a juicy sirloin and bottle of wine?

Eventually Marco began to slip in the changes whilst robust reds and chilly blancs were sipped from the bar stools and fireside tables.  Most significantly, he altered the entire ambience by moving the bar from the front to the rear of the Inn.  The maitre d’ (who has been there forever) told me it was for space reasons, but it does necessitate everyone walking through the restaurant en route to the bar.

Extraordinarily, they have not replaced the carpet. It is disgusting and on a par with scuzzy nightclub carpets, when the lights go up.

The menu offers exceptional value.

A two course lunch is offered for £14.50. Going a la carte at dinner, it is almost impossible to spend more than £30 per head.

I ordered the Wheeler’s of St James Fish Pie at £13.50.  Salmon, cod, prawns, egg and leak covered with mash.  It was very good, but such a shame it was only lukewarm.

My guest enjoyed salmon fishcake with tartare sauce  at £11.50.

A glass of house champagne is £8.50.  I had a large glass (250ml) of Gavi di Gavi, the best white on offer by the glass, which was £10.

Sunday lunch seems a good option with two courses on offer for £19.95 and, interestingly, Sunday Supper is promoted with two courses costing £13.50 between 6pm and 9pm.

The rooms were still being renovated during my visit in early 2008, but, judging from the photographs on the web site, they look to be furnished to a good standard.  Indeed, the maitre d’ also told me that Marco visits The Yew Tree several times each week and always sleeps in one of the rooms, so that's a fair recommendation!


The Yew Tree Inn
Hollington Cross
Highclere
Newbury
RG20 9SE

01635 253360

http://www.theyewtree.net/