Malta - Tarragon
Winter 2008/2009
Frank's view 
Marvin's Maltese Marvel
The Mediterranean always seems much more miserable than England, when its cold, wet and windy.
My last visit to Malta had been in a scorching summer heat wave. It was now early March and there seemed to be more water on the roads than in the adjacent sea. The palms ducked and dived as the storm fought to rip them from their roots.
Our local host had booked a table at Tarragon, the most highly rated new restaurant on the island. Apparently Tarragon sits in a stunning position over St Paul’s Bay, with fabulous views across the port and sea beyond.
I’ve no idea.
All I saw was a ‘No Through Road’ sign, through rain splattered windows.
The sign above the door, intriguingly, announced that Tarragon was ‘Established on ’07-07-07’ (clearly a better choice then the sinister 06-06-06!).
Marvin Gauci, the Chef Patron, sporting checked chef trousers, welcomed and guided us to a secluded table by a window (“I can give you this nice table at an extra charge, but I’ll give you a discount”, he quipped).
The staid room, with dark wooden beams, and dark red walls, is in curious contrast to the small, soft, sofa area and uber cool ‘Nikki Beach’ style electronic ambient music.
The menu is extensive and fairly priced, even in these times of a poor Euro / Pound exchange rate. Beef is imported from Scotland and Argentina, chicken and pork are local, as is the fish.
The house specialty is ‘Al sale’, a whole fish, which is baked in a rock salt casing then flambéed at the table.
Our starter selections included Beef Strudel - Angus beef, minced, and wrapped in a tortilla (€8.50). I didn’t try it, but my fellow diners loved it.
My Calamari was lightly fried and served with julienned carrots, diced tomatoes and a little lettuce (€8.25). It was too dry and would have benefited from an accompanying light sauce. There was also too much garlic for my palate.
To follow, the others opted for fillet (€24.50) and rib eye steaks (€22.00) whilst I was drawn to the ‘Al sale’ with king prawn (€24.00).
The steaks arrived. I urged my colleagues to start whilst we waited for the ceremonial flambé of the salt-caked fish. As the flames relented, the waiter commenced the filleting. This spectacle was repeated around the restaurant, as most diners seemed seduced by Marvin’s marvel. It’s just a pity that the fish wasn’t flamed and dissected before the steaks arrived, as the others had almost cleared their plates before I raised fork to mouth.
The fish was very fresh. Sauté potatoes and a platter of crisp vegetables, including diced carrots, cauliflower, white cabbage and French beans, accompanied all dishes.
The homemade Crème Brule at Tarragon has received lavish praise from local critics. It was, indeed very good, as was the Tiramisu. All are priced at a very reasonable €5.50.
At times, whilst trying to catch his attention, our patience was stretched as the waiter enjoyed prolonged chats with other tables. Whilst he was, perhaps, slightly over affable, the waitress working with him was less interactive.
“Is this local wine good?” I enquired, hoping for an informed response.
“Yes”, she replied, deadpan, then asked for our orders.
Throughout the evening Marvin moved between kitchen and guests, monitoring service and checking that all was well with his patrons.
I will return to Tarragon, on a warm summer day, for lunch. I’m sure the setting is wonderful and Marvin deserves to succeed.
I would not be surprised if he owns a chain of restaurants on the island within a few years
Tarragon
Church Street
St Paul's Bay
Malta
+356 21573 759
http://www.tarragonmalta.com/
Special Offer for all Tarragon Guests
Marvin Gauci has kindly offered ArsyCamel readers who reserve a table at Tarragon a complimentary glass of Prosecco on arrival and a liquor to complete your meal. Simply mention the ArsyCamel offer when you book. (Arsycamel.com receives no benefit or commission from Tarragon restaurant.)
My last visit to Malta had been in a scorching summer heat wave. It was now early March and there seemed to be more water on the roads than in the adjacent sea. The palms ducked and dived as the storm fought to rip them from their roots.
Our local host had booked a table at Tarragon, the most highly rated new restaurant on the island. Apparently Tarragon sits in a stunning position over St Paul’s Bay, with fabulous views across the port and sea beyond.
I’ve no idea.
All I saw was a ‘No Through Road’ sign, through rain splattered windows.
The sign above the door, intriguingly, announced that Tarragon was ‘Established on ’07-07-07’ (clearly a better choice then the sinister 06-06-06!).
Marvin Gauci, the Chef Patron, sporting checked chef trousers, welcomed and guided us to a secluded table by a window (“I can give you this nice table at an extra charge, but I’ll give you a discount”, he quipped).
The staid room, with dark wooden beams, and dark red walls, is in curious contrast to the small, soft, sofa area and uber cool ‘Nikki Beach’ style electronic ambient music.
The menu is extensive and fairly priced, even in these times of a poor Euro / Pound exchange rate. Beef is imported from Scotland and Argentina, chicken and pork are local, as is the fish.
The house specialty is ‘Al sale’, a whole fish, which is baked in a rock salt casing then flambéed at the table.
Our starter selections included Beef Strudel - Angus beef, minced, and wrapped in a tortilla (€8.50). I didn’t try it, but my fellow diners loved it.
My Calamari was lightly fried and served with julienned carrots, diced tomatoes and a little lettuce (€8.25). It was too dry and would have benefited from an accompanying light sauce. There was also too much garlic for my palate.
To follow, the others opted for fillet (€24.50) and rib eye steaks (€22.00) whilst I was drawn to the ‘Al sale’ with king prawn (€24.00).
The steaks arrived. I urged my colleagues to start whilst we waited for the ceremonial flambé of the salt-caked fish. As the flames relented, the waiter commenced the filleting. This spectacle was repeated around the restaurant, as most diners seemed seduced by Marvin’s marvel. It’s just a pity that the fish wasn’t flamed and dissected before the steaks arrived, as the others had almost cleared their plates before I raised fork to mouth.
The fish was very fresh. Sauté potatoes and a platter of crisp vegetables, including diced carrots, cauliflower, white cabbage and French beans, accompanied all dishes.
The homemade Crème Brule at Tarragon has received lavish praise from local critics. It was, indeed very good, as was the Tiramisu. All are priced at a very reasonable €5.50.
At times, whilst trying to catch his attention, our patience was stretched as the waiter enjoyed prolonged chats with other tables. Whilst he was, perhaps, slightly over affable, the waitress working with him was less interactive.
“Is this local wine good?” I enquired, hoping for an informed response.
“Yes”, she replied, deadpan, then asked for our orders.
Throughout the evening Marvin moved between kitchen and guests, monitoring service and checking that all was well with his patrons.
I will return to Tarragon, on a warm summer day, for lunch. I’m sure the setting is wonderful and Marvin deserves to succeed.
I would not be surprised if he owns a chain of restaurants on the island within a few years
Tarragon
Church Street
St Paul's Bay
Malta
+356 21573 759
http://www.tarragonmalta.com/
Special Offer for all Tarragon Guests
Marvin Gauci has kindly offered ArsyCamel readers who reserve a table at Tarragon a complimentary glass of Prosecco on arrival and a liquor to complete your meal. Simply mention the ArsyCamel offer when you book. (Arsycamel.com receives no benefit or commission from Tarragon restaurant.)
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
