St Tropez - Spoon Byblos
Summer 2008
Frank's view 
Take your cutlery elsewhere
St Tropez is sadly lacking in quality cuisine, which is surprising when one considers the ludicrous amounts of money that are thrown around every summer, by clientele who think nothing of spending obscene sums in top restaurants around the planet. I suspect the reason is that the season is too short to justify a world-class chef setting up shop in a town where it’s more about champagne and parties than fine cuisine.
The closest a celebrity chef has ventured to St Tropez is Alain Ducasse allowing his Spoon brand and concept to be introduced at Hotel Byblos.
Evening restaurant tables during July and August are in huge demand so this Camel and companion were not going to be caught out. We needn’t have bothered. This was mid August, peak season in St Tropez, and Spoon was all but deserted.
Those who can’t afford the posh rooms overlooking the swimming pool, are perched above the restaurant. Throughout our meal, two young teenage girls sat on the balcony of their room smoking and staring at the deserted space below.
Apparently the fundamental concept of Spoon is ‘Freedom’. You may pick 'n' mix from Japanese, Moroccan, Indian, pasta and chicken.
An ‘amuse bouche’ of tomato, pepper and mint consommé was served to all, after which diversity was encouraged.
The Chef’s Starter selection, (€32) which included crisp salad, two prawn dumplings, ceviche of sea bream, and egg plant with tuna was a startling parting of the ways between quality and price, even by St Tropez standards.
This Camel followed with John Dory (€38) whilst his companion was served Lamb Tagine (€34). These prices were still high but in fairness, not particularly adrift from Spoon’s St Tropez competitors.
They say a fool and his money are easily parted. Well, anyone ordering the Chateau Petrus 1990, at €2800, must be bonkers.
Spoon was a disappointment. I wonder when Alain Ducasse last dined here, if indeed he ever has?
Spoon
Hotel Byblos
St Tropez
+33 4 94 56 68 20
http://www.byblos.com/
The closest a celebrity chef has ventured to St Tropez is Alain Ducasse allowing his Spoon brand and concept to be introduced at Hotel Byblos.
Evening restaurant tables during July and August are in huge demand so this Camel and companion were not going to be caught out. We needn’t have bothered. This was mid August, peak season in St Tropez, and Spoon was all but deserted.
Those who can’t afford the posh rooms overlooking the swimming pool, are perched above the restaurant. Throughout our meal, two young teenage girls sat on the balcony of their room smoking and staring at the deserted space below.
Apparently the fundamental concept of Spoon is ‘Freedom’. You may pick 'n' mix from Japanese, Moroccan, Indian, pasta and chicken.
An ‘amuse bouche’ of tomato, pepper and mint consommé was served to all, after which diversity was encouraged.
The Chef’s Starter selection, (€32) which included crisp salad, two prawn dumplings, ceviche of sea bream, and egg plant with tuna was a startling parting of the ways between quality and price, even by St Tropez standards.
This Camel followed with John Dory (€38) whilst his companion was served Lamb Tagine (€34). These prices were still high but in fairness, not particularly adrift from Spoon’s St Tropez competitors.
They say a fool and his money are easily parted. Well, anyone ordering the Chateau Petrus 1990, at €2800, must be bonkers.
Spoon was a disappointment. I wonder when Alain Ducasse last dined here, if indeed he ever has?
Spoon
Hotel Byblos
St Tropez
+33 4 94 56 68 20
http://www.byblos.com/
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
