New York - Spice Market

Frank's view
Disneyland

"The world's leading white tablecloth experience" is how Culinary Concepts, the owners of Spice Market, modestly describe their restaurants.

Oh how I wish I'd done my homework before visiting this much hyped theme park diner in New York's Meatpacking District.

Spice Market is one stop in a chain of restaurants owned by Alsace born chef, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Catterton Partners (a private equity firm) and Starwood Hotels & Resorts.

We were staying at the nearby Standard Hotel and meandered across the street at around 2pm for a late lunch. New York Magazine describes the interior of Spice Market as the 'palace of an arriviste Balinese drug lord'. I prefer Indiana Jones. I suspect a drug lord might have invested more in the décor. As guitars and platinum discs are to Hard Rock, so hanging lanterns and Buddha shrines are to Spice Market. Disneyland couldn't have done it better.

The space is vast with the ground floor built around a huge open staircase leading to the basement and restrooms. A long bar fills the area by the entrance where wannabe diners presumably form a line as they queue for the next sitting. Best to fast track and book in advance.

The menu is inspired by street food Jean-Georges enjoyed whilst traveling around Asia. It all sounds very romantic but real street food in Asia can be a very risky business as rats forage through rotting rubbish alongside locals striving to make a living by cooking over hot coals. Did he really pick up Shaved Tuna, Chili Tapioca Asian Pear and Lime from an enterprising chef on the byways of Bangkok?

The menu is impressive and not particularly expensive with appetisers to share averaging around $12 and mains around $20. Unfortunately the eastern promise does not live up to expectations with the dishes having that 'ready made' feeling.

As the clock edged towards 3pm the vacuum cleaners emerged. Words and actions clashed as a waitress asked "Can I offer you anything else?" whilst another pushed and pulled on her Hoover under the adjacent table.

In England they ring a bell and call 'time'.

I've even known a landlord spell it out:

"We've 'ad your brass an' we've no further use for you...."

but a smart proprietor can always take more of your brass.

Have a nice day.


Spice Market
403 W13th Street
New York

212 675 2322

http://www.spicemarketnewyork.com/






Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?



Bookmark and Share

Home

What They Say About Frank Camel


Read More

 

  twitter link

 

  twitter link

 

FREE Newsletter

Sign up for the the latest travel news, reviews and updates

Click here now!

 

The Camel Archive

Read some of our recent items from the archive

Read More

 

Camel Comments

London - Texture
'Apparently the chef comes from Iceland - the frozen food store perhaps?'


St Tropez - Caprice des Deux
"This wonderful street has been brutally hacked by an act which has scarred its charm and character."


Rajasthan - Shahpura Bagh
'The reigning Raj talked of how his father shot the tiger which dominates the drawing room.'


Miami - Casa Casuarina
'The swimming pool floor consists of over one million hand laid mosaic tiles'


Santiago - Ritz Carlton
"Dieting in Santiago would not be too testing for anyone used to eating only good food."


Miami - Blue Door (at Delano Hotel)
"Don't splash out on the Chateau Petrus 1949 at $8,500. The dining experience isn't worth it."


London - Clos Maggiore
'waiters strived to seduce orders amidst talk of rings and far away tropical islands'


New York - Nobu Next Door
"The Japanese seaside was soon engulfed by a saki tsunami."






All photography and reviews are owned by frankcamel.com except where stated. For permission to reproduce any content please contact us.