Rajasthan - Shahpura Bagh
Dump or desire? 
'a fabulous find'
Eight hours is an awfully long time to spend in a car but it really is the only way to travel from Udaipur to Jaipur.
Negotiating kamikaze truck, tractor and motorbike riders is bad enough but the real threat to safe passage comes from that most rampant of Indian road hogs, the lumbering sacred cow.
As you twist through endless villages, Ganesha, the happy elephant god with the smiley trunk, watches from roadside shrines, as cows stand firmly in the middle of the road. Staring at each other through the windscreen, both driver and cow know that a whisker of contact will bring the wrath of 3 million Hindu gods crashing down on his mortal Toyota.
Villages are linked by straight open roads. Unfortunately, these are barely wider than the tractors, which crawl along at around the same pace as the ladies, with pots on their heads, walking by the roadside.
These roads are also the territory of gladiator bus drivers who accelerate towards anything approaching from the opposite direction. Bodies stick out of the roof, like a double decker, which has had its upper level sliced off. Others cling to the sides and rear, as the bus swerves moments before impact. It is a truly terrifying game of dare.
Situated approximately 40 kilometres from the main road, half way between Jaipur and Udaipur, is the village of Shahpura, a rural and unspoilt village, way off the tourist trail, and Shahpura Bagh, the19th century summer home of its rulers.
Sat Singh, nephew of the current Rajadhira of Shahpura, and his wife Maya, opened the house as a small hotel in 2006. This 45 acre private estate has two houses. One is the main house where the family live, guests dine and there are also two guest rooms. The other is named ‘Umaid Niwas’, the guest lodge, consisting of five suites and three guest rooms.
Our suite, as are all the suites, was vast; 670 sq ft and a 22ft high ceiling. It was beautifully furnished and had a number of family photographs from past generations. There was no mini bar, no television and no Internet access, but none of that mattered. We were house guests of an Regal Indian family.
Lunch, which was waiting for us at the house, comprised a selection of excellent home produced Indian dishes prepared by one of their three cooks. As we rose from the table to return to Umaid Niwas, Maya invited us to join the family for pre dinner drinks at 7pm.
Shahpura Bagh sits on the edge of a large lake with interesting birds and wildlife, perfect for an afternoon stroll. Alternatively, the estate is next to the village of Shahpura and its market which, Maya said, were perfectly safe to visit. They also organise a daily early evening safari of the surrounding area with one of their guides.
The Singh family have ensured that Shahpura Bagh is eco-friendly. For example the water, which is pumped from a well on the estate, is solar heated. It is very hot and there is plenty of it.
After a bath, it was time for drinks. Approaching the house, we were greeted by the current Raj and his sisters. Over a couple of Gin & tonics he entertained us with tales of how his ancestor had been given Shahpura in 1630 by the reigning Maharajha as a reward for his loyalty and bravery, how his father had shot the tiger which dominates the drawing room and many more stories of days gone by.
Dinner was a communal affair with all seated round one table, enjoying more specialities from the kitchen.
Shahpura Bagh is a wonderful find, a genuine opportunity to meet and live with a Royal Indian family.
I suspect more families will open their family homes as a way of generating income to maintain and restore historic properties, whilst giving tourists an opportunity to learn about their life and culture.
The Singh family are charming and entertaining, but one must hope the other guests with whom you dine are as engaging.
As a one night stop off between Jaipur and Udaipur, it is highly recommended.
Shahpura Bagh
Shahpura
Rajasthan
+91 982 8122012
http://www.shahpurabagh.com/
Negotiating kamikaze truck, tractor and motorbike riders is bad enough but the real threat to safe passage comes from that most rampant of Indian road hogs, the lumbering sacred cow.
As you twist through endless villages, Ganesha, the happy elephant god with the smiley trunk, watches from roadside shrines, as cows stand firmly in the middle of the road. Staring at each other through the windscreen, both driver and cow know that a whisker of contact will bring the wrath of 3 million Hindu gods crashing down on his mortal Toyota.
Villages are linked by straight open roads. Unfortunately, these are barely wider than the tractors, which crawl along at around the same pace as the ladies, with pots on their heads, walking by the roadside.
These roads are also the territory of gladiator bus drivers who accelerate towards anything approaching from the opposite direction. Bodies stick out of the roof, like a double decker, which has had its upper level sliced off. Others cling to the sides and rear, as the bus swerves moments before impact. It is a truly terrifying game of dare.
Situated approximately 40 kilometres from the main road, half way between Jaipur and Udaipur, is the village of Shahpura, a rural and unspoilt village, way off the tourist trail, and Shahpura Bagh, the19th century summer home of its rulers.
Sat Singh, nephew of the current Rajadhira of Shahpura, and his wife Maya, opened the house as a small hotel in 2006. This 45 acre private estate has two houses. One is the main house where the family live, guests dine and there are also two guest rooms. The other is named ‘Umaid Niwas’, the guest lodge, consisting of five suites and three guest rooms.
Our suite, as are all the suites, was vast; 670 sq ft and a 22ft high ceiling. It was beautifully furnished and had a number of family photographs from past generations. There was no mini bar, no television and no Internet access, but none of that mattered. We were house guests of an Regal Indian family.
Lunch, which was waiting for us at the house, comprised a selection of excellent home produced Indian dishes prepared by one of their three cooks. As we rose from the table to return to Umaid Niwas, Maya invited us to join the family for pre dinner drinks at 7pm.
Shahpura Bagh sits on the edge of a large lake with interesting birds and wildlife, perfect for an afternoon stroll. Alternatively, the estate is next to the village of Shahpura and its market which, Maya said, were perfectly safe to visit. They also organise a daily early evening safari of the surrounding area with one of their guides.
The Singh family have ensured that Shahpura Bagh is eco-friendly. For example the water, which is pumped from a well on the estate, is solar heated. It is very hot and there is plenty of it.
After a bath, it was time for drinks. Approaching the house, we were greeted by the current Raj and his sisters. Over a couple of Gin & tonics he entertained us with tales of how his ancestor had been given Shahpura in 1630 by the reigning Maharajha as a reward for his loyalty and bravery, how his father had shot the tiger which dominates the drawing room and many more stories of days gone by.
Dinner was a communal affair with all seated round one table, enjoying more specialities from the kitchen.
Shahpura Bagh is a wonderful find, a genuine opportunity to meet and live with a Royal Indian family.
I suspect more families will open their family homes as a way of generating income to maintain and restore historic properties, whilst giving tourists an opportunity to learn about their life and culture.
The Singh family are charming and entertaining, but one must hope the other guests with whom you dine are as engaging.
As a one night stop off between Jaipur and Udaipur, it is highly recommended.
Shahpura Bagh
Shahpura
Rajasthan
+91 982 8122012
http://www.shahpurabagh.com/
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
