Masai Mara - Saruni

Having flown overnight from London to Nairobi then immediately switching to a small Cessna, as we approached Saruni’s airstrip on the edge of Masai Mara, this camel was firmly focused on a hot bath oasis.

But John Ole Nchoe, our Masai guide for the next 3 days, had other ideas, and whisked us off in one direction, whilst our bags disappeared in the other.

“Are we going to the camp?” I asked.

“Later, at lunch time” replied John. “First we are going on Safari”

“But what about my bath or hot shower?” I pondered quietly.

Within minutes we were by a bath….a bath shared by around 70 hippos and several of the largest crocodiles I have ever seen.  Personal hygiene thoughts evaporated and I reached for my camera.

Over the following two hours we saw elephants, cheetahs, wildebeest, giraffes, zebra and lots more.  When we finally arrived at Saruni Camp, the only major predators we had not seen were lions, rhinos and leopards, and they were soon to follow.  It was a truly awesome introduction to the Masai Mara and safari.  As another guest commented at lunch,

     “If I had to leave now I would not be disappointed.”

Saruni is located in the hills close to the Masai Mara National Reserve, and enjoys a stunning view through the valley, across the bush.

During our stay at Saruni we very quickly learned that there are 2 absolute golden rules to ensure a great safari.

- Stay in a small camp or lodge

- A top quality guide with thorough local knowledge is absolutely essential

Saruni accommodates 12 guests in 6 large cottages.  The camp was opened in early 1993 and is owned by Riccardo Orizio (an Italian journalist) and his Norwegian wife, Marriana.  Riccardo decided within three days of first visiting the Masai Mara in the early 1990s that his future lay there. His commitment to the local villagers and community is very apparent in the mutual respect that he and Masai have for each other.  All his staff are Masai.  Askari (Masai soldiers) patrol the camp every night with their bows, arrows and spears.  Guests are guided to and from their cottages after dark as animals roam in the camp grounds.

The accommodation is impressive when one considers the location.  The cottages are large with private verandahs overlooking the grounds towards the bush.  Saruni is very eco friendly.  Light and heat are solar powered.  The downside of this is that hot water is only really available in the early evening.  However, should you wish a morning shower, ask the evening before and a fire will be lit under your water heater 30 minutes before you plan to enjoy your morning shower.  Plug sockets are the three pin UK standard.  On it's web site, Saruni boasts that guests are able to enjoy a ‘shower with a view’, which is fine so long as no one decides to explore the garden in front of your bathroom!

Basic toiletries (excluding hair conditioner) are provided but make sure you remember everything you may need in this department.  Suncream, Aftersun and Lip Balm are essential in the Masai Mara and it’s a pity the shop does not carry anything other than souvenirs.

There are no mosquitoes due to the altitude and, although a yellow fever inoculation is recommended, we travelled with no medical precautions.

Rates are all inclusive. The cuisine is very good, and, unsurprisingly, has more than a touch of Italian. The wine is also Italian, the red being better than the white, but both are very acceptable.

Dining is on one communal table. Typically all guests dine together with Riccardo placing guests to his personal seating plan. One excellent touch is the inclusion of one or more of the guides at the table who entertain with tales of the bush. John told us how he had to kill a lion as a teenager, armed only with his spear, to prove himself a worthy Masai Warrior.

This leads to the second key rule of a great safari.  The guide.

Saruni is close to a number of large lodges some of which host 100+ guests.  Whilst out with John, in his open Land Rover, we encountered convoys of vehicles from the large lodges.  Whereas we were on a personal safari with John at our beck and call, the others were in parties of up to 30 and going where they were told.  On one night time drive, we came across a leopard. Three Land Rover Discoveries from the Mara Safari Club turned up, had a quick look, and then drove off. Once they had gone John quietly tracked the leopard for a further 20 minutes or so with a search light. It was a fascinating experience.

The guides are all in radio contact with each other, passing on tips of sightings.  One such tip led to a location where three brother cheetahs had just killed a wildebeest and were taking turns to tear at it and feed, just a few feet from our vehicle.

In three days we covered a huge amount of ground.  A wake up knock on the cottage door at 6.30am was accompanied by our choice of drink.  Breakfast was at 7 and we were out on safari by 7.30.  Back for lunch then out again. The evening safari was a particularly amazing experience with the predatory animals emerging as the sun set.  On the first night I did wonder how John would find his way back in the pitch black of the Masai Mara.

“Its just like any city” he said. “The bush is made of districts and we know where we are at all times”.

He did, however, tell us that inexperienced guides, particularly from the large lodges have become lost after dark.

Saruni has a small treatment room for massage, pedicure etc.  I did find time to enjoy a complimentary back massage, which accompanies each cottage. It’s worth doing.

It is also worth taking advantage of the option of having dinner served on your cottage verandah. Mixing with other guests can be fascinating, depending upon the guests (and we were lucky), but having one romantic dinner in the privacy of your own space is something not to miss.

We left after three days, exhausted but exhilarated.

Saruni is exceptional. If you wish to see endless wildlife close up, I cannot imagine that there is a better option in the whole of Africa.

http://www.sarunicamp.com/