London - The River Cafe
Frank's view 
Go for lunch and write off the afternoon'
AA Gill describes The River Café as ‘Tuscany in Fulham.’
As I gazed from reception, through the warehouse of diners, towards the open kitchens, I was teleported to Sydney, Australia. The brash blue (would you have a carpet that colour at home?), crisp white and shiny steel create an ambience, which is more Circular Quay than Tuscan Trattoria.
However, the cuisine is undoubtedly Italian. Even the wine is exclusively Italian, with the exception of the Billecart Salmon champagne.
The menu changes twice a day, month by month, and reflects the produce of the seasons.
Even staunch fans of The River Café mutter about its high prices.
The Camel’s companion chose ‘Insalata del mercato di Milano.’
For the non Tuscans amongst you that’s mixed winter leaves from the Milan market with smoked pancetta, wood roasted chestnuts, red wine vinegar and olive oil. At £11.50 it was just about the least expensive dish on the menu and one of the simplest.
I scanned the ‘Primi’ list and my tummy eyes fixed on Taglierini alla Triglia (fresh fine pasta with red mullet, tomato, bay leaves, lemon zest and vinegar) .
The pasta was indeed fine, both in quality and width. The flakes of red mullet were perfectly cooked, but the tomato flavouring was extremely intense and dominated the dish.
We both decided to skip the Fresh Fine Pasta with Tuscan white truffles (£50).
Per Secondi, I was tempted by Branzino al Forna (fillet of wild sea bass roasted over thyme branches, with Casteluccio lentils, roast trevise and Pinot Bianco Terlaner - £29).
Despite the complicated sounding compilation, it was subtle, simply presented, and the fish beautifully cooked.
Our other secondi was wood- roasted pheasant wrapped in Proscuitto, stuffed with rosemary & sage, cooked in dry Marsala with braised cavolo nero (£25).
The River Café achieved Michelin star status in 1998 and its prodigies include Jamie Oliver, Sam & Sam Clark of ‘Moro’ and April Bloomfield of Manhattan’s ‘Spotted Pig.’
Probably my most striking impression of The River Café was the family atmosphere which Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers have created. These two matriarchs clearly recruit carefully and nurture their team. The result is enthusiastic, warm waiters and waitresses who clearly love being part of The River Café.
As I placed my card on the bill, my perception was of a restaurant which is more concerned about people and quality than profit.
That’s clever.
The River Cafe
Thames Wharf
Rainville Road
London W6 9HA
020 7386 4200
http://www.rivercafe.co.uk/
As I gazed from reception, through the warehouse of diners, towards the open kitchens, I was teleported to Sydney, Australia. The brash blue (would you have a carpet that colour at home?), crisp white and shiny steel create an ambience, which is more Circular Quay than Tuscan Trattoria.
However, the cuisine is undoubtedly Italian. Even the wine is exclusively Italian, with the exception of the Billecart Salmon champagne.
The menu changes twice a day, month by month, and reflects the produce of the seasons.
Even staunch fans of The River Café mutter about its high prices.
The Camel’s companion chose ‘Insalata del mercato di Milano.’
For the non Tuscans amongst you that’s mixed winter leaves from the Milan market with smoked pancetta, wood roasted chestnuts, red wine vinegar and olive oil. At £11.50 it was just about the least expensive dish on the menu and one of the simplest.
I scanned the ‘Primi’ list and my tummy eyes fixed on Taglierini alla Triglia (fresh fine pasta with red mullet, tomato, bay leaves, lemon zest and vinegar) .
The pasta was indeed fine, both in quality and width. The flakes of red mullet were perfectly cooked, but the tomato flavouring was extremely intense and dominated the dish.
We both decided to skip the Fresh Fine Pasta with Tuscan white truffles (£50).
Per Secondi, I was tempted by Branzino al Forna (fillet of wild sea bass roasted over thyme branches, with Casteluccio lentils, roast trevise and Pinot Bianco Terlaner - £29).
Despite the complicated sounding compilation, it was subtle, simply presented, and the fish beautifully cooked.
Our other secondi was wood- roasted pheasant wrapped in Proscuitto, stuffed with rosemary & sage, cooked in dry Marsala with braised cavolo nero (£25).
The River Café achieved Michelin star status in 1998 and its prodigies include Jamie Oliver, Sam & Sam Clark of ‘Moro’ and April Bloomfield of Manhattan’s ‘Spotted Pig.’
Probably my most striking impression of The River Café was the family atmosphere which Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers have created. These two matriarchs clearly recruit carefully and nurture their team. The result is enthusiastic, warm waiters and waitresses who clearly love being part of The River Café.
As I placed my card on the bill, my perception was of a restaurant which is more concerned about people and quality than profit.
That’s clever.
The River Cafe
Thames Wharf
Rainville Road
London W6 9HA
020 7386 4200
http://www.rivercafe.co.uk/
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
