London - The Red Fort
Winter 2008/2009
Frank's view 
'Go for the £12 lunchtime Mughal Banquet'
Walking down Dean Street, in the heart of London’s movie and ‘Ad’ land, we passed a large agency type office building with ‘Tequila’ above the door.
"Wasn’t that once Gold Greenless Trott"? I asked.
"Why do agencies have such silly names these days?" came the retort.
"Perhaps people are scared to put their name above the door in case the business flops?"
"Now we have a street full of flouncy mind statements."
We flounced into the Red Fort, virtually next door. I’m sure my only other visit was at least 20 years ago, although the web site suggests the Red Fort opened in 1991. It has certainly undergone a facelift since whenever I last curried there. It was also much busier in its past lunchtime life.
This was Tuesday in January and the place was credit crunched. There were only two other tables occupied. Quo Vadis, across the road, wasn’t faring much better.
The web site made much of the £12 ‘Mughal-style’ set lunch. This camel is not one for set menus, but the online blurb did sound persuasive.
Menus were delivered, but only the a la carte. Where was the £12 Mughal banquet? I asked, and the waiter handed over the A4 sheet of bargain delights, albeit, I sensed, a touch reluctantly.
We decided to order one set menu and a couple of a la carte dishes. The Camel’s companion fancied the starter described as ‘cottage cheese with mint and coriander.’ (Bhatti Ka Paneer @ £6.50). It wasn’t cottage cheese. Paneer is an Indian cheese. It was very dry and the most disappointing dish of the meal.
The a la carte main, however, was fantastic – Kandhari Champ @ £18 - grilled thin sliced Scottish lamb chops with star anise and pomegranate jus.
We mixed and matched these with the set lunch, which was the best value meal ever. A selection of 4 starters was followed by a chicken dish, vegetables, lentils, rice and basket piled with different breads.
I really could dine on this every day. My wallet would remain replete, but so would my tummy.
The Red Fort
77 Dean Street
London W1
020 7437 2525
http://www.redfort.co.uk/
"Wasn’t that once Gold Greenless Trott"? I asked.
"Why do agencies have such silly names these days?" came the retort.
"Perhaps people are scared to put their name above the door in case the business flops?"
"Now we have a street full of flouncy mind statements."
We flounced into the Red Fort, virtually next door. I’m sure my only other visit was at least 20 years ago, although the web site suggests the Red Fort opened in 1991. It has certainly undergone a facelift since whenever I last curried there. It was also much busier in its past lunchtime life.
This was Tuesday in January and the place was credit crunched. There were only two other tables occupied. Quo Vadis, across the road, wasn’t faring much better.
The web site made much of the £12 ‘Mughal-style’ set lunch. This camel is not one for set menus, but the online blurb did sound persuasive.
Menus were delivered, but only the a la carte. Where was the £12 Mughal banquet? I asked, and the waiter handed over the A4 sheet of bargain delights, albeit, I sensed, a touch reluctantly.
We decided to order one set menu and a couple of a la carte dishes. The Camel’s companion fancied the starter described as ‘cottage cheese with mint and coriander.’ (Bhatti Ka Paneer @ £6.50). It wasn’t cottage cheese. Paneer is an Indian cheese. It was very dry and the most disappointing dish of the meal.
The a la carte main, however, was fantastic – Kandhari Champ @ £18 - grilled thin sliced Scottish lamb chops with star anise and pomegranate jus.
We mixed and matched these with the set lunch, which was the best value meal ever. A selection of 4 starters was followed by a chicken dish, vegetables, lentils, rice and basket piled with different breads.
I really could dine on this every day. My wallet would remain replete, but so would my tummy.
The Red Fort
77 Dean Street
London W1
020 7437 2525
http://www.redfort.co.uk/
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
