New York - Picholine

Winter 2009/10
Frank's view
saved by the food - just

Perhaps I'd missed the funny handshake or was it just that we weren't in with the 'Central Park West' in-crowd?

Whatever the crime, the punishment was dished out with disdain as we endured the snottiest treatment from the waiting staff.

The service couldn't have been more dismissive if I'd been wearing a Ronald McDonald mask and asked for the 'all you can eat' salad bar.

Over the last 17 years Picholine has received more accolades than a swotty smug schoolboy. The New York restaurant critics love it. Picholine was opened in 1993 by Terrance Brennan, the son of Virginian restaurateurs. Brennan cut his teeth in Washington DC hotels and restaurants before working his way around some of the most prestigious kitchens in Europe. Since opening Picholine he has built up his own mini New York empire including Artisinal, a fromagerie - brasserie in Park Avenue.

Apparently Picholine was redesigned in 2006 to include a walk-in wine & cheese bar at the front and a dining room at the back, with the two being linked by a corridor which has tables and chairs along each side. Yes, we did look enviously at the elegant rear inner sanctum, well at least the Camel's companion did. I simply stared at the wall behind her.

Diners are given a choice of four menus, the 7 course Tasting Menu ($135), the Dinner Menu ($92), the Prix Fixe Menu ($58) and the scarily titled Menu d'Economie with 3 plates for $20 or individual Tasting Plates for $15 which is only available in the bar. Having been out for lunch at Amaranth across the park (highly recommended) we opted for the restaurant's economy class Prix Fixe menu. We weren't total cheapskates and ordered glasses of pink Taittinger at $24 each and a bottle of pinot noir at $95.

The food was very good. I suggest you either order from the three course Prix Fixe menu or indulge in the Tasting banquet. The Prix Fixe starters are all included on the Dinner Menu so the extra $34 buys you a greater choice of starters and a more lavish selection of mains.

The service was not very good. Over enthusiastic waiters whipped away plates as the final fork touched down from the last dribbling encounter. The waiter who served our Preludes (starters) had a demeanour which said, "another boring customer", as he spat his explanation over our food.

The cheese trolley was the cool catwalk prototype - perfectly proportioned, smoothly manoeuvered around the room and never touched by a diner. One selected one's cheese and within minutes a slice was returned, whilst the trolley remained unblemished.

Picholine is stuffy, padded and oppulent (and that's just the staff).

Europe does this sort of thing much better but if you are looking for fine European cuisine in NYC with arsy waiters.....


Picholine
35 West 64th Street
New York

212 724 8585

http://www.picholinenyc.com/





Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?



Bookmark and Share

Home

What They Say About Frank Camel


Read More

 

  twitter link

 

  twitter link

 

FREE Newsletter

Sign up for the the latest travel news, reviews and updates

Click here now!

 

The Camel Archive

Read some of our recent items from the archive

Read More

 

Camel Comments

Paris - Royal Monceau
"The worst hotel we have ever had the misfortune to visit."


Udaipur - Aroma
'was Mr Jhala the guide's father or simply his uncle?'


St Tropez - Nikki Beach
"It's like an Oligarch Offspring convention"


Lake Como - Villa D'Este
"So many proud tourists talk of how the Italians named this little town after a Las Vegas hotel"


Barcelona - Merendero de la Mari
'we seemed miles away from hustle of La Rambla'


London - The National Dining Rooms
'The room was dotted with ageing solo diners.'


London - Boundary
'Initially it all seemed perfect - then we sat down.'


New York - Harry Cipriani
'The blender had minced the bacon but the gristle survived.'


Sydney - Icebergs
'Bondi reminded me of Scarborough, the Yorkshire seaside resort.'


Mumbai - Dome
'sophisticated chic above Mumbai'






All photography and reviews are owned by frankcamel.com except where stated. For permission to reproduce any content please contact us.