London - Petersham Nurseries

Summer 2008
Frank's view
'for a perfect summer lunch, probably two shades if in the shade"

It was perfect.

A scorching day in early May and a lunchtime table at one of the hottest restaurants in London.

Not that Petersham Nurseries is in London.  This is probably the least conveniently located restaurant in the UK.  It’s not an easy drive from central London and once you arrive, there’s nowhere to park.  The train’s a pain.  The web site suggests travelling by bicycle.

Petersham Nurseries is exactly what it says it is – a garden centre, a very up market garden centre .

Francesco Boglione, an Italian insurance dealer, and his wife, Gael, own Petersham House.  They bought the nursery next to their house in the summer of 2002, rather than see it bulldozed and taken over by developers.  Almost two years later in March 2004, Petersham Nurseries re-opened.

Arguably, the genius stroke was to persuade Skye Gyngell, daughter of Australian TV guru, Bruce Gyngell, to set up Petersham Nurseries Café.

Dining is on rickety tables of varying heights and sizes.  Seating is also unpredictable with chairs and stools of different levels of comfort, uncomfort and collapsability.

The food is exceptional and beautifully presented.

Starters included:

Carpaccio of Smoked Haddock with raw courgettes, Camone tomatoes and purple basil (£13)
Orange fleshed melon with speck (£14.50)
Crab cakes with Chilli oil and Spinacini (£13)

To follow:

Salt baked turbot with pea shoots and Biscotto potatoes (£29)
Beef with Swiss Chard, Bortolli & green beans and Horseradish cream (£25.50)
Barbequed Quail with chickpeas & Salsa Verde (£24)

There are two dining room options, depending upon the weather.  On our blistering hot visit, the tables were outside, between two of the greenhouses, in an ambience, which is quintessentially English and almost impossible to better.  However, I suspect this dining area is rarely used, due to the English weather, and the inclement option is inside, at the rear of one of the retail greenhouse areas.

Unfortunately, the best option is a hot day when you can dine outside.  The problem is that tables book weeks in advance so unless you have a direct link to the weather god, achieving the perfect lunch is a lottery.


Petersham Nurseries Cafe
Petersham
Richmond
London

020 8605 3627

http://www.petershamnurseries.com/cafeandteahouse
'It was perfect - but travel by bicycle'



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