London - Nobu
Winter 07/08
Frank's view
'The chilled saki bill spirals all too easily.'
This camel is a huge fan of Nobu Matsuhisa, the genius chef behind the Nobu group of restaurants.
Backed by Robert De Niro and others, Nobu in the Metropolitan Hotel opened in 1997 and was his first restaurant outside of the US. What a contrast it is to the scruffy, slightly seedy Matsuhisa of Beverley Hills.
The Nobu blurb talks of subtle interior design using light wood and stone but others might suggest the ambience is clinical, bordering on sterile. The view out of the window is of the traffic jams below on Park Lane. Perhaps it was all very cool in 1997 but the restaurant world has moved on.
However, Nobu is about food and on this level there can be no complaints. If you are unsure of what to order take the advice of your waiter.
This camel’s favourites include:
New style sashimi, Tiradito, Rock shrimp tempura with ponzu, and no visit to Nobu is complete without their signature dish, Black cod with Miso. If you have never tried this, it is a must!
Bamboos of chilled saki are too easy to consume with such pace that it almost becomes embarrassing. After the first few refills, your waiter, like a veteran auctioneer, will take your order on the slightest hint of a nod or a wink.
Boris Becker immortalized Nobu with his infamous and very costly visit to a cupboard. Since then the restaurant has been and continues to be frequented by hosts of celebrities. Do not expect to secure a table at short notice. In fact, just having someone answer the phone when you call to book can be a trial of patience.
If you can write off an afternoon, lunch is a good option. It’s easier to book and there is rarely the pressure to vacate your table for waiting diners.
Nobu London
19 Old Park Lane
London W1
020 7447 4747
http://www.noburestaurants.com/london




