Dorset - Museum Inn

Wow!

Take a look at the Museum Inn web site. The accolades would make Ramsay blush and Marco modest.

From the corner stone of ‘English Inn Of The Year 2005’, the Museum parades Egon Ronay with all the eminent UK national newspaper critics in tow, tripping over each other to pile on the praise.  Perhaps a momentary lapse of humility led to the inclusion of The Observer’s contribution; ONLY ‘Sixth best pub in Britain’.

But is it really this good?

The Museum Inn is located in the tiny hamlet of Farnham which, to be quite blunt, is in the middle of nowhere.  Successful country pubs must find a niche and this one has struck ‘Apres Shoot’ gold.

Slap bang in the middle of one of England’s most prestigious ‘Shoot’ territories, The Museum has harnessed clients such as Guy Ritchie and his Ashcombe Estate parties.  When Mr Madonna is not at the bar, ‘City Slickers’ on jollies to the country are holed up at The Museum.

Michelin trained chef, Matthew Davey, runs the show using an array of fresh produce from the surrounding farms and waters. The menu, which changes to offer the best of what is available, is not for lettuce leaf shufflers. The pork belly portion served to the camel’s companion was clearly one of only a few per pig. The catering is geared to fill the bouncy castle size tummies of the wine coloured trouser brigade.

This camel opted for Gilt Head Bream fillet with curly kale and rosti potatoes.  I am sad to report that the fish appeared to have been thrown on a barbeque.  It was certainly not cooked with care.  The rosti potato was also over cooked, indeed burnt, and ended up on the side of my plate.

My crab starter was good, but the overall consensus of the table was that the food was more in the Sunday roast stable than Michelin star cuisine.  The prices, however, are very reasonable with most starters around £7.50 and mains £16.50.

The wine list is extensive for a country Inn, but clearly targeted, once again, at the men in tweed.

The Museum Inn offers reasonably priced accommodation, which we have not experienced, but is probably a good option if you need somewhere to stay in the area. No doubt the rooms are fully occupied during the shooting season.

The ambience is buzzy, due to the invariably interesting clientele. The conservatory dining area behind the bar is tragic in its unsubtle attempt to appeal to the shooting parties.  Tartan curtains and trophy stag heads are understandable but why the splattering of embryonic skulls on the wall?

(See the middle photo on http://www.museuminn.co.uk/pub.php )

Despite the above negatives, the Museum Inn is worth a visit if you happen to be in the area, but I wouldn’t make a special visit (without a gun and silly trousers).

Museum Inn
Farnham
Dorset

01725 516251

http://www.museuminn.co.uk/

Sept 09 - David Sax, the new owner of The Museum, has written in response to this review:

I am not sure when you visited The Museum but I am thinking it was in the last 18-24 months. I am the owner of The Museum and I completed the purchase very early in January 2008. I agree with your views about the pub and would probably concur with your views relating to Matt Davey's cooking.

It would have been suicidal for me to make wholesale changes as soon as I got my feet under the table at The Museum. That said I am now well into my second year and three members of staff remain from the original 25. I have installed a new head chef and General Manager. Matt Davey was helped on his way sometime ago. I have also completed an extensive re-furb at the bequest of the Mr & Mrs Smith guide.

Please believe me when I say I am our harshest critic. That said I truly believe the food and service are the best The Museum has ever known. Please take a look at Trip Adviser restaurants in Farnham. The recent reviews speak for themselves. Better still come and see for yourself.

Regards
David Sax