London - Memories of China
Winter 07/08
Frank's view
' stick to the starters '
The ‘warrior statue’ which stands by the entrance of Memories of China may be a look-a-like, but it most certainly is not one of the legendary Terracotta Army.
Legendary, however, is how Memories of China describes itself on the restaurant’s web site.
Located on Ebury Street, Belgravia, this restaurant clearly targets a top end clientele. Owner Ken Lo and executive chef Lam Po But believe that their Chinese cuisine rises to the occasion.
The ambience is plastic dragons and light coloured trellising.
We copped out of the a la carte (too busy talking) and ordered the ‘Fragrant Garden’ set menu for the table of four at £33 per person. The wine list seemed reasonably priced.
The food arrived surprisingly quickly.
The five spiced spare ribs were a huge hit, likewise the sautéed spicy salt and pepper prawns, and scallop and prawn dumplings. I wasn’t sure about the crispy shredded deep fried smoked chicken (pungent and unsubtle) but the others enjoyed it.
A huge portion of Sichuan Aromatic & Crispy duck arrived. It was so large we couldn’t finish.
Alas, ‘twas downhill from here on in.
The three main courses of Pan fried salmon with black bean sauce, Sichuan hot fried shredded beef, Peking quick fried lamb with garlic and spring onion seemed coated in a thick transparent layer of goo.
They were barely touched, and I don’t believe that was due to over facing of the starters. There was a decline in cuisine appeal.
It has to be said that the Peking Sugar spun glazed apple & banana with coconut ice cream was a hit.
This camel, and as it transpired, none of my fellow diners, were particular fans of Chinese cuisine, so perhaps this is an unfair view.
But legendary?
Memories of China
65 – 69 Ebury Street
London
SW1W 0NZ
020 7730 7734
http://www.memories-of-china.co.uk/




