Los Angeles - Matsuhisa

This must be a wind up….or maybe we have the wrong restaurant.

These were thoughts which shot through our minds as we walked into the tiny reception area of Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills.

 Was this scruffy, slightly seedy joint really the home of the world's most sophisticated Japanese cuisine?  The contrast with the slick Nobu restaurants around the world could not be more extreme.

The first indication that we were indeed in the right place was copies of the latest Nobu cookery book, clinging to the edge of the overloaded small reception desk.

There is no bar or waiting area.  If your table is not ready, which is generally the case, you simply stand by the desk in a space tight for one.  There are often a number of human sardines in this can.  Funnily enough, you find yourself not minding the wait, which would be hugely irritating in most other restaurants.  Perhaps it is the intrigue of the place, the Nobu connection and the people coming and going around you.

In fairness, the wait is generally minimal as the restaurant is clearly aware of the lack of holding space. The tables are tight together. The main part of the restaurant consists of effectively one line of tables for two, which are pieced together depending upon party sizes. The clientele is a blend, the likes of which you will probably never see anywhere else.  Locals, who have frequented the restaurant since it opened in 1978, tourists who are hoping for a glimpse of the great man himself, and Hollywood stars who are here for the exceptional food.

It was extraordinary to see Karl Lagerfeld, resembling Count Dracula, at a nearby table.  The contrast between character and ambience could not be more extreme.

You find yourself drawn into conversation with the people at the adjacent tables. The atmosphere is very buzzy and friendly.

Suddenly I notice the man himself quietly chatting to someone at a nearby table.  It was the final proof that we are in the right place.  Matsuhisa Nobu comes across as a very modest man.  Apparently he tries to spend around half his time in this restaurant and happily wanders around the tables chatting to guests.

The food is Nobu.  Fabulous and still the best Japanese cuisine on the planet. 

If you love Japanese food and you are in LA, this is an absolute must. But, make sure you book, ideally via your hotel concierge.

Nobu Matsuhisa
129 North La Cienega Blvd
Beverly Hills

+1 310 659 9639