London - Lucio

Winter 07/08
Frank's view
'Faultless! Don't miss the Terry O'Neill photographs'

This unsung star of the Italian restaurant world is ignored by a number of critics and top restaurant guides.  Why, I don’t know.  It may be safe, but it is excellent.

Lucio was once Maitre d’ at San Lorenzo in Beauchamp Place.  He left, to set up his own restaurant on Fulham Road, much to the annoyance of the San Lorenzo matriarch.

Small, exclusive and classy are words which come to mind.  Lucio personally greets diners, who, without exception, are elegant, sophisticated and well dressed.  The restaurant is discreet and understated.  It’s not surprising that it is a favourite of celebrities.

The dining room walls host a gallery of black and white Terry O’Neill photographs, including Joan Collins, Isabella Rossellini and the famous shot of Frank Sinatra, with his body guard entourage, on Miami beach.

We thoroughly enjoyed starters of fresh octopus and black cabbage risotto, and carpaccio of tuna.  The sea bass which followed with was cooked to perfection.  Lucio’s home-made pasta dishes are also superb.

The menu is not expensive, with starters around £14 and mains ranging from £17 to £22.  The wine list offers some particularly good Italian wines. We sipped Simmaco (Isola dei Nuraghi) which was sensibly priced at £38.50. Lucio also offers some very good wines by the glass at around £5.

One suspects that most of the clientele are local and well known to Lucio.  However, if you’re not a Chelsea resident, Lucio is still worth a visit, for either lunch or dinner.

 

Lucio
257 Fulham Road
London
SW3 6HY





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