London - Locanda Locatelli

Winter 07/08
Frank's view
'try lunch time'

There is nothing worse than sitting in a restaurant staring at a wall.  Clever restaurants have mirrors on the walls so that diners can surreptitiously voyeur the room.  Locanda Locatelli goes one step further and has large convex mirrors which give a much fuller view of what is happening behind you.

It is almost impossible to secure a reservation in the evenings but the restaurant is much quieter at lunchtimes.  Situated at the end of the Churchill Hyatt Regency Hotel, on the edge of Portman Square, Giorgio Locatelli’s establishment is one of the finest Italian’s in London.

Despite the innovative mirrors, the back wall, which fundamentally consists of tables for two, is the least appealing seating area.  The best tables are the three circular booths in the centre of the restaurant which seat between 4 and 6.  Request one if you can.

As you would expect, the bread is very good, as were the gourmet bread sticks, proudly described by our waiter.

Starters are typically around £12.   I ordered the special pasta of the day to start, ‘penne with a red mullet and fresh tomato sauce’.  It was excellent.

Main courses range between £21 – £30.  The ‘slow roast rump fillet steak’ was not only very good, it was a huge portion; two large slices of beef when one would have sufficed.

The Italian wine list is very comprehensive with options from £20 upwards.  Expect to pay at least £40 for a good bottle.


Locanda Locatelli
8 Seymour Street
London
W1

020 7935 9088

http://www.locandalocatelli.com/

'diners surreptitiously voyeur the room'



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