Saint Paul de Vence - Le Saint Paul
Summer 2009
Frank's view 
Go to La Colombe D'Or
How do you compete with a grand dining room, walls laden with Picasso and Matisse, and a spectacular summer terrace, a celebrity honey pot, where balmy evening dinners are star-studded who’s who gatherings?
This is the problem faced by Le Saint Paul, as it strives to attract clientele from the neighbouring La Colombe D’or, probably the most famous hostelry in the whole of Provence.
Relais & Chateaux ‘s, Le Saint Paul Hotel, is one of many buildings squashed in to the pretty hill village of Saint Paul de Vence.
The restaurant is a narrow terrace at the rear with views for only a privileged few tables across the hills beyond.
Relais & Chateaux are very proud of their gourmet restaurants which are usually very expensive and Le Saint Paul is no exception.
Expect to pay around €40 for a starter and €48 for a main if you dine à la carte. Alternatively choose the 5 course ‘Le Saint Paul’ menu (€70) or splash out on the €100 ‘Gourmet menu’. Add on a bottle of wine (you won’t realistically pay less than €50), water, etc., and you are looking at a minimum €150 per person.
Presentation presided over taste, with over fussy plate noodling undoubtedly the key justification for excessive pricing.
Unfortunately the food did not match expectations. The Camel’s companion commented that the chef seemed to have a penchant for balsamic vinegar, which he doodled with liberally on each dish. The lamb was fairly flavourless and the cabbage mushy.
Prices have not been increased from last year which may suggest a nervousness about the season ahead. These over-priced restaurants will always have regular clientelle but how many people decide to dip in and enjoy a ‘special treat’ this summer remains to be seen.
If you are thinking of an extravagant dining experience in St Paul de Vence, go to La Colombe D’Or, but book well in advance. (It's also much less expensive!)
Le Saint Paul
86 Rue Grande
St Paul de Vence
+33 4 93 32 65 25
http://www.lesaintpaul.com/
This is the problem faced by Le Saint Paul, as it strives to attract clientele from the neighbouring La Colombe D’or, probably the most famous hostelry in the whole of Provence.
Relais & Chateaux ‘s, Le Saint Paul Hotel, is one of many buildings squashed in to the pretty hill village of Saint Paul de Vence.
The restaurant is a narrow terrace at the rear with views for only a privileged few tables across the hills beyond.
Relais & Chateaux are very proud of their gourmet restaurants which are usually very expensive and Le Saint Paul is no exception.
Expect to pay around €40 for a starter and €48 for a main if you dine à la carte. Alternatively choose the 5 course ‘Le Saint Paul’ menu (€70) or splash out on the €100 ‘Gourmet menu’. Add on a bottle of wine (you won’t realistically pay less than €50), water, etc., and you are looking at a minimum €150 per person.
Presentation presided over taste, with over fussy plate noodling undoubtedly the key justification for excessive pricing.
Unfortunately the food did not match expectations. The Camel’s companion commented that the chef seemed to have a penchant for balsamic vinegar, which he doodled with liberally on each dish. The lamb was fairly flavourless and the cabbage mushy.
Prices have not been increased from last year which may suggest a nervousness about the season ahead. These over-priced restaurants will always have regular clientelle but how many people decide to dip in and enjoy a ‘special treat’ this summer remains to be seen.
If you are thinking of an extravagant dining experience in St Paul de Vence, go to La Colombe D’Or, but book well in advance. (It's also much less expensive!)
Le Saint Paul
86 Rue Grande
St Paul de Vence
+33 4 93 32 65 25
http://www.lesaintpaul.com/
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
