Marseille - Le Petit Nice

Creeping along Corniche Kennedy, the avenue which curves around the bay beyond le Vieux Port, I was visibly antagonising the moody Marseille motorists stacking up behind, when I hit the brakes.

A vivid blue sign, carrying the words ‘Le Petit Nice’ pointed down an alley, barely wide enough for a cat.

Manoeuvring down a drainpipe, with a 90 degree bend at the bottom, is not the most enticing first impression of a luxury hotel.

The penitentiary style gates opened to reveal a tiny parking area littered with abandoned vehicles.

Arriving at Le Petit Nice really is this much of an ordeal.  Goodness knows how slightly inebriated drivers manoeuvre their departure after one of Gerald Passedat’s gourmet banquets.

The staff watched as we carried our bags up the steps to reception and looked surprised, even mystified, by the arrival of guests.  Once we had identified ourselves the mood changed.  For the duration of our stay the staff were friendly and efficient.  Those opening moments, however, were very odd.

Le Petit Nice is superbly positioned on a corner of the coast, close to the old port of Marseille.  The sea is on two sides and the hotel looks out to Chateau D’If, on the island made famous by Alexander Dumas’ tale, ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’. The setting is stunning.

In 1917, Germain Passedat, grandfather of the current proprietor, Gerald Passedat, purchased the Villa Corinthe and transformed it into Le Petit Nice.  The hotel is proud of its 90+ year heritage, although it is now an affiliate of the Relais Chateau Group.

We were allocated the Marcel Pagnol suite on the corner of the hotel with a total of six large windows (4 towards the front, 2 on the side) offering tremendous views.

The hotel was renovated in 1989, by architect Eric Klein, with somewhat avant-garde design.  It is a period piece, which hopefully will remain and fade over the coming years.

A large Jacuzzi, screened by a mosaic wall, forms the centre piece of the suite dividing the sitting and bedroom areas.  The sitting area, a combination of deep red velvet and glass, is more about design than comfort.  The bathroom is a blend of simple grey tiling, stainless steel and glass.

It is a spacious and interesting suite, but, fundamentally, this room is all about the view.

We had an opportunity to look at the adjacent suite which was very large but had neither the views nor the light.  Marcel Pagnor is clearly the best option.

Like so many hotels in this part of the world, early or late summer is the best time to visit and enjoy the swimming pool and alfresco dining terrace.  Waves crashing against the rocks below creates a special ambience for Gerald Passedat's cooking.

Le Petit Nice is first and foremost, about its 3 Michelin star restaurant. (See separate review.) I suspect the hotel enjoys a great deal of one night business from guests who dine and sleep, as indeed we did. Spending a few days here might be too much.  It’s not a particularly convenient position for checking out the surrounding area, and access to the hotel, is of course, a challenge in itself.


Le Petit Nice
Anse de Maldorme
Corniche J.F. Kennedy
Marseille

+33 4 91 592 592

http://www.petitnice-passedat.com/