Udaipur - The Lake Palace

Spring 2008
Frank's view
'unique and worth staying at once'

There is a scene in the Bond movie ‘Octopussy, where one of the villains releases a circular saw onto 007’s accomplice, played by 80’s tennis star Vijay Armitraj.  Our minds can only contemplate the gruesome outcome as the camera cuts to a mass of birds screeching and scattering.

This is the only acknowledgment the Director makes of the huge problem which plagues the Lake Palace Hotel, (or Octopussy’s island).

As we approach the stunning white building, on one of the many small shuttle boats which move between the mainland and the hotel 24 hours each day, the black specks lined along the side of the hotel become visible as pigeons.

In the centre of the palace, the beauty of the lily pond garden in which Octopussy’s girls bathed, is overshadowed by screaming birds. The racket continues through the night. Interestingly, there is little evidence of pigeon poo, so a small team of cleaners must be working very hard night and day.

Over the years the hotel has tried many techniques to discourage the pigeons but they are attracted to the white building.  Apparently a mass cull is not an option.

The Lake Palace is one of two luxury hotels we tried on Lake Pichola, the other being the 89 room Oberoi Udaivilas, built in the early part of this millennium in a vast space on the edge of the lake.

By contrast, the 83 room Lake Palace is over 250 years old, having been built in 1746, and sits on a relatively small 4 acre island. One hotel is gauche opulence, the other a historical monument.

The rooms are of adequate size and sit directly by the lake, like cabins on a ship. There are no balconies.

Lying in bed in the morning, watching the reflection of the water dance on the intricate wood ceiling, whilst a minstrel plays the Indian flute in the lily garden, is a magical way to begin the day.

The Lake Palace has a small swimming pool with only 9 pairs of loungers.  Sun bathing opportunities are limited, if you do manage to secure one of the very comfortable loungers, as the sun drops behind the hotel and away from the swimming pool in early to mid afternoon. The staff are very attentive, regularly distributing chilled 200ml bottles of Himalayan water.

The highlight of our stay was a sunset cruise on the 170 year old Royal Barge (also featured in Octopussy).

The low spot was the awful dinner we endured in Bahairo, the rooftop restaurant.

The Indian restaurant at the Lake Palace is allegedly very good, but the stunning setting of Bahairo won the day.  We did plead for Indian cuisine on the rooftop without success.  Neither of the inside restaurants have appealing ambience.

A private dining terrace is available but should be booked when you reserve your room.  The small table and two chairs by the lily pond is a perfect place for tea, a cocktail or late night digestif.

The bar is buried inside the hotel and the short early evening entertainment is in an area by the lobby.  Why does the hotel not build a bar on the rooftop, and arrange local entertainment for the duration of the evening, as the Oberoi does?

Unfortunately the reality is that the Lake Palace hotel is a little quirky and complacent, relying too much on its 250 year history and a James Bond movie made in the early 1980s.  The hotel needs to sharpen its act up if it is to maximise its potential and compete with the Oberoi.  There should be no competition.

The Lake Palace would make a fabulous highly exclusive club hotel, similar to Casa Casurina, the former Versace home in Miami. Instead it has become a honeymooner’s stopover. The real money goes the Oberoi, but it should be here.


Taj Lake Palace
Lake Pichola
Udaipur

+91 294 242 8800

Link to hotel
 
"at the centre of the palace is the lily pond where Octopussy's girls bathed"



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