Mykonos - Kiki's Restaurant

I recently bumped into some people who have been going to Mykonos “en famile” for years.  (God knows why…this gay paradise and Bacchus playground is not an obvious venue for mum, dad and the 2.3 kids’ annual fun filled outing).

I mentioned Kiki’s restaurant and they looked blankly.

Hidden just above the Aglos Sostis beach, with beautiful views over the bay, is this simple rustic restaurant.  To be honest, it took us a little while to find Kiki’s. We identified a tiny terrace with a handful of tables and tentatively asked the man behind the gate if this was Kiki’s. “I am Kiki” he replied.

The restaurant opens at 1.00pm on the dot and people queue from around 12.45. Kiki has a very strict first come first seated policy and the best tables are undoubtedly the four tables for two across the front of the terrace. Make sure you are in the first 8 would-be diners.  Despite everyone usually eating late in Mykonos, this little taverna is packed by 1.10pm.

I could sit there all day, every day, in the dappled light canvas of branches, looking at the view and eating the home made fare. Everything is bright blue and white, with sunflowers. 

Kiki has no electricity, not even for a dishwasher. Fish and meat are cooked on the charcoal barbeque and the plates are washed by hand, in the sink, by (not in) the loo. The lack of power dictates that salads make up a large part of the menu, which is very inexpensive. A substantial lunch for two, including lots of rose wine, came to 52 euros.

Sadly, even here, the fish is all frozen. Apparently there are not enough fishermen or resources around Mykonos to meet demand and most of the island’s fish comes, frozen, from Athens.

Despite the increasing queue of people waiting, outside, for tables, there is no pressure to eat up and go. Eventually guilt wins the day and one feels obliged to do the decent thing and allow someone else the pleasure of Kiki’s hospitality and views.

Kiki’s
Aglos Sostis
Mykonos