London - Kai Mayfair
Frank's view 
'Nice harp playing'
The big swinging dicks of the ‘City’ may have been cut off in their prime but whilst these newly neutered eunuchs are not jumping out of windows, they are also not leaping into top restaurants.
Fortunately Mayfair's overseas residents still have a budget for culinary extravagance.
On the night we arrived at Kai the restaurant was noticeably quiet. The large round table for parties of a dozen or so was occupied by a group of Asian businessmen.
A Middle Eastern family arrived looking as if they didn’t have two shekels to rub together, which of course they did. This restaurant is not for the impoverished.
The extensive menu offers an Imperial Delicacy entitled ‘Buddha Jumps Over the Wall’. I’m sure Buddha did jump in disbelief when he saw the price. £108 for what is described as a ‘highly, extravagant soup’?
The menu warns that this ‘broth fit for an Emperor’ requires 5 day’s notice. Is this 5 days of cooking or 5 days of mental preparation to spend over a hundred quid on a bowl of soup?
And no, I didn’t order it.
Being somewhat boring we opted for the classic starter of half an Aromatic Crispy Duck. It was £31 and good, but there again, crispy duck is difficult to get wrong.
Another Chinese classic followed, Szechuan Chicken Cashew Nuts (£16). The menu claimed a unique recipe, laced with dried chilli to make it spicier, which it wasn’t particularly.
Finally a sense of adventure emerged with ‘Chilean sea bass filet, chopped snow leaf topped with shrimp crumble.’ Once again, the excitement was more in the words than on the plate.
The ambience was enhanced by a live harpist, which beats the usual pre-recorded twanging in most Chinese restaurants.
The credit card slip arrived for signature, and the addition of a further gratuity, on top of the 'optional' 12.5% service charge – always an irritating touch.
Kai Mayfair
65, South Audley St
London
W1K 2QU
020 7493 1456
http://www.kaimayfair.co.uk
Fortunately Mayfair's overseas residents still have a budget for culinary extravagance.
On the night we arrived at Kai the restaurant was noticeably quiet. The large round table for parties of a dozen or so was occupied by a group of Asian businessmen.
A Middle Eastern family arrived looking as if they didn’t have two shekels to rub together, which of course they did. This restaurant is not for the impoverished.
The extensive menu offers an Imperial Delicacy entitled ‘Buddha Jumps Over the Wall’. I’m sure Buddha did jump in disbelief when he saw the price. £108 for what is described as a ‘highly, extravagant soup’?
The menu warns that this ‘broth fit for an Emperor’ requires 5 day’s notice. Is this 5 days of cooking or 5 days of mental preparation to spend over a hundred quid on a bowl of soup?
And no, I didn’t order it.
Being somewhat boring we opted for the classic starter of half an Aromatic Crispy Duck. It was £31 and good, but there again, crispy duck is difficult to get wrong.
Another Chinese classic followed, Szechuan Chicken Cashew Nuts (£16). The menu claimed a unique recipe, laced with dried chilli to make it spicier, which it wasn’t particularly.
Finally a sense of adventure emerged with ‘Chilean sea bass filet, chopped snow leaf topped with shrimp crumble.’ Once again, the excitement was more in the words than on the plate.
The ambience was enhanced by a live harpist, which beats the usual pre-recorded twanging in most Chinese restaurants.
The credit card slip arrived for signature, and the addition of a further gratuity, on top of the 'optional' 12.5% service charge – always an irritating touch.
Kai Mayfair
65, South Audley St
London
W1K 2QU
020 7493 1456
http://www.kaimayfair.co.uk
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
