London - J Sheekey
Winter 07/08
Frank's view 
' not as good as the hype '
Written up by many as the best fish restaurant in London, and having not visited J. Sheekey for many a year, this camel and companion were full of anticipation.
J Sheekey dates back to the 19th century, but was allegedly ruined by Scotts ownership in the late 1980s and early 90s, with it finally going bust in 1993. Rescued by Richard Caring’s Caprice Holdings and re opened in 1998, J Sheekey is now packed daily, with tables booked months in advance.
Seated at the rear of one of the alcoves which make up the restaurant, sitting side by side, we were both able to look out across the dark oak paneled room containing seven tables, all of which were full.
As the restaurant is near Theatre Land and the Royal Opera House, it has a large clientele of ‘pre and post’ diners, whose focus is the production and not a four hour dinner with good friends.The restaurant walls exhibit many black and white autographed photographs of stars of stage and screen from years gone by. My head was resting just below Kenneth More, the legendary British actor who died in 1982. In fact, so packed are the walls, everyone who was anyone in early British stage and cinema, seems to have dined here.
The Camel’s companion was on a voyeuristic wedding ring hunt. The young couple to our right were sharing an anniversary meal. The intimate couple to their left had no visible rings: Wife in the country - secretarial support in town - dinner at J. Sheekey’s, followed by a show?
She looked like she’d been down to the country for a quick roll in the hay; the Worzel Gummidge scarecrow hair do, or perhaps she insisted Nicky Clark gave her his flicky end look and kept the roots brown to hedge her options.
Perhaps it was a case of 'he’s married a blond but likes brunettes?'
This camel opted for seared tuna with fennel and tomato salad to start. It was an odd fusion, with the fennel too strong and pungent for the tuna, the quality of which was undeniably fine. Fillet of John Dory with artichoke mash was to follow. It was good but not exceptional.
The camel’s companion raved enthusiastically about the Cornish fish stew.
Quite frankly, this camel doesn’t understand what the fuss is about. The waiting staff were excellent and very attentive. The ambience was interesting but not special.
The Camel's companion disagreed. 'The ambience was good'.
The ‘gents’ was curious. The green mosaic wall tiling had clearly been missed in the post Scott’s cleansing, By the wash basin was a very large bin. Above the bin, a solitary sign:
‘Please place your used towels in the bin below’
Sophisticated clientele?
Sheekey thinks not...
or perhaps the camel's companion disagrees?
J Sheekey
28 – 32 St Martin’s Court
London WC3
020 7240 2565
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
