Guildford - Jamie's Italian

March 2010
Frank's view
Pricey fun for friends & families

'No Bookings Necessary'

...said the website.

Was this because the place was so quiet a table was a racing certainty, or perhaps the cynical amongst us might think that the cheekie chappie was trying to keep the place packed night and day by never turning down a customer?

'We want you to visit us when it suits you', the web site continued reassuringly. Being able to book usually means that you can eat when it suits you, which is my preference, rather than propping up the bar for half and hour waiting for a table which is what happened on the miserable March Monday evening we visited Jamie's Italian in Guildford. As it transpired we were lucky. More often than not you have to queue outside - not much fun when it's cold and wet!

The battery of radio pagers on the side of the reception desk is a pretty clear indication that few are seated the moment they walk through the door. We were promised a wait of no more than 35 mins and ushered to the bar. The pager would vibrate when our table was ready. (Ask for a table downstairs. The atmosphere is much better). I ordered some wine and was promptly asked for my credit card. The barman produced a snug fitting coffin for my plastic, pushed the door shut and handed me a key. What next? A re-entry wristband should I wish to slip out for a few moments? An identity tag around my neck lest I forget who I am during the prolonged wait for sustenance or maybe a cap with a flashing light in case I miss the vibrator in my pocket and the waitress has to dig me out from the gathering hoardes.

This building was formerly a 60s architectural carbuncle occupied by an HSBC bank. It sat empty for some time before being, cleverly, recreated as the eighth Jamie's Italian. The concrete pillars and air conditioning vents have been made into features and the ambience is indeed very buzzy. The colours are a brash blend of turquoise and red. I did contemplate whether the red Dualit toaster and meat slicer were bought to match the serving bar they sat on, or vice versa?

The waiting staff are fun whilst being efficient. Service isn't included but I suspect they do well from cash tips - they certainly should do.

The place is packed with families giving a feel more in keeping with a TGI Friday diner, but the prices are most definitely not geared for your everyday mum, dad and the 2.2 kids.

We opted for the 'Seasonal Meat Antipasta Plank' at £6.65 a head. Apparently Jamie got fed up with people ordering a one portion plank for the table which four people shared. It was an interesting selection of cold meats (one piece each), a mozzarella ball each and two tiny bowls of coleslaw and pickles which the menu described as Salad & Pickles. As a starter it was good but at £13.30 it was expensive, and certainly not generous portioning.

To follow, my friend ordered Lamb Chop Lollipops (£13.95). Jamie does love his fluffy, cuddly lingo. It looked good and I'm told it was, which made it a better option than my Fish in a Bag (£15.95). The proposition sounded irresistible. The freshest sea bass fillet from Brixham market, Cornish mussels and clams steamed in their own juices with smashed fennel, heritage potatoes, capers, arrabiatta sauce and zesty Amalfi lemon. The bag arrived, a baking paper and foil parcel teeming with juice and the promised goodies. The fish was cooked to perfection but very small, the clams and mussels were chewy (are Cornish mussels in season at the moment? Some say not) and despite the appetising appeal of the description, the flavour was bland. I was very disappointed and have enjoyed much better fish dishes for a similar price in top London restaurants.

If you're a fan you will no doubt retort that Jamie is a top cook and on a par with any Michelin starred chef. I don't dispute that he is very good at what he does which is preparing fairly simple, straightforward dishes. These do not involve the intricate work and time taken by gourmet kitchens. He requires fewer people in the kitchen and much less preparation time for sauces etc etc. His costs are therefore much less and his profit potentially much higher.

Jamie's Kitchen is very clever. It gives the impression of a quality, inexpensive meal out in a fun environment. But when the bill arrives I wonder how many people shudder as the latest victim of the cuddly wallet assassin?


Have you dined at a Jamie's Italian? What do you think. Click below and let me know what you think.




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