London - The Ivy
Spring 2009
Frank's view 
Ivy Bindweed
The Ivy is probably London’s most famous restaurant. Princess Diana held private dinners here. AA Gill, the critic who once likened his welcome at London restaurants to King Herod entering Mothercare, wrote a book about the place.
It used to be easier for a curvy camel to champion the eye of a needle challenge than for a mere mortal to enter The Ivy.
Not now.
I booked a table for four at 8pm and was told it was required back at 10.30pm. Welcomed by the trademark Ivy doormen, draped in green Victorian capes and bollar hats, we entered the lobby. Turning immediately left and venturing downstairs would result in a surprise for any inquisitive females, as the stairs open directly onto the ‘Men’s Room’ facilities.
We were shown into the inner sanctum, which was packed, bustling and noisy.
Diners with the faintest line of sight of the entrance, hoping to catch the arrival of a celebrity, monitor every opening of the door. There is almost an assumption that every guest is famous. You can see the mind wheels whirring. “Where have I seen him before?”
The reality is that no one famous goes there anymore. They're all upstairs in the Ivy Club.
The waiting area by the bar has seating for only a very cozy dozen. It must become extremely uncomfortable at table change-over times.
Wood panelled walls and stained glass windows combine to create the sense of an ecclesiastical community, or perhaps an esoteric club where members meet and greet with a funny handshake.
The menu has all the Richard Caring standards, which you will find at Le Caprice and Scotts, plus a few ‘Ivy Specials’.
Our starters included Shellfish Bisque (£7.25), which was very ordinary. Why not create an interesting soupe de poisson and charge more?
The Kingfish Sashimi (£13.75 ) was good, as was the Foie Gras (£16.50), but I really would not expect either of these to disappoint.
I would not have expected Rack of Welsh Lamb (£24.75) and, the normally reliable, Bannockburn Rib Eye Steak (£27.50) to disappoint either, but both were shocking. The ‘medium rare’ steak was very well done and the ‘pink’ lamb was raw. Not only was it barely cooked; the quality of the meat was very poor.
I hope this was an ‘off night’ as I have not experienced anything other than good food at Caring’s restaurants.
What was truly out of order was the £2 per person cover charge. As a practice in lesser Italian and Spanish eateries, this is expected and probably acceptable. But when diners are paying upwards of £35 for two courses, it is the equivalent of a 5 star hotel charging for Internet access.
The Ivy has clearly passed its heyday.
The Ivy
West Street
London WC2
020 7836 4751
http://www.the-ivy.co.uk/
It used to be easier for a curvy camel to champion the eye of a needle challenge than for a mere mortal to enter The Ivy.
Not now.
I booked a table for four at 8pm and was told it was required back at 10.30pm. Welcomed by the trademark Ivy doormen, draped in green Victorian capes and bollar hats, we entered the lobby. Turning immediately left and venturing downstairs would result in a surprise for any inquisitive females, as the stairs open directly onto the ‘Men’s Room’ facilities.
We were shown into the inner sanctum, which was packed, bustling and noisy.
Diners with the faintest line of sight of the entrance, hoping to catch the arrival of a celebrity, monitor every opening of the door. There is almost an assumption that every guest is famous. You can see the mind wheels whirring. “Where have I seen him before?”
The reality is that no one famous goes there anymore. They're all upstairs in the Ivy Club.
The waiting area by the bar has seating for only a very cozy dozen. It must become extremely uncomfortable at table change-over times.
Wood panelled walls and stained glass windows combine to create the sense of an ecclesiastical community, or perhaps an esoteric club where members meet and greet with a funny handshake.
The menu has all the Richard Caring standards, which you will find at Le Caprice and Scotts, plus a few ‘Ivy Specials’.
Our starters included Shellfish Bisque (£7.25), which was very ordinary. Why not create an interesting soupe de poisson and charge more?
The Kingfish Sashimi (£13.75 ) was good, as was the Foie Gras (£16.50), but I really would not expect either of these to disappoint.
I would not have expected Rack of Welsh Lamb (£24.75) and, the normally reliable, Bannockburn Rib Eye Steak (£27.50) to disappoint either, but both were shocking. The ‘medium rare’ steak was very well done and the ‘pink’ lamb was raw. Not only was it barely cooked; the quality of the meat was very poor.
I hope this was an ‘off night’ as I have not experienced anything other than good food at Caring’s restaurants.
What was truly out of order was the £2 per person cover charge. As a practice in lesser Italian and Spanish eateries, this is expected and probably acceptable. But when diners are paying upwards of £35 for two courses, it is the equivalent of a 5 star hotel charging for Internet access.
The Ivy has clearly passed its heyday.
The Ivy
West Street
London WC2
020 7836 4751
http://www.the-ivy.co.uk/
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
