London - The Greenhouse
Summer 2008
Frank's view 
'ask the sommelier for his selection'
In my review of Providores, a restaurant with fabulous food but the ambience of a ‘greasy spoon’, I questioned what makes a great restaurant experience. Is it the food, the ambience or a blend of both?
Is Michelin starred cuisine, and good but not exceptional, wine, sufficient to justify a price tag of £150 per head? I don’t think so.
I spent an evening at The Greenhouse, by the entrance, looking directly at the bar and toilet area. The wall facing me had three glass decanters, each individually framed. A quick look and I was ready for something a little more stimulating. Fortunately the Camel’s companion eased my sore eyes.
However, apart from the occasional ‘Exorcist’ head spin, I have no idea of the ambience of The Greenhouse.
Gordon Ramsay understands guest seating and in his top restaurants gives two a round table, with both sitting side by side, looking out into the room. Other restaurants at least have mirrors so that wall facing diners feel part of the proceedings.
The Greenhouse has several round tables for two. I looked enviously at one couple, like a passenger on an old business class jumbo, stuck in the middle of a row of three, wondering how the person across the aisle had secured a window with a vacant aisle seat.
Hidden under an apartment block in London’s Mayfair, The Greenhouse is approached by a catwalk alongside the darkened windows of this minimalistic, dark varnished wood and glass dining room restaurant.
Within seconds of being seated, the champagne fairy barricaded our table with his trolley, and the smiling waiter had a glass of pink Billecart-Salmon (£16) in my companion’s hand. I asked for the wine list. An encyclopedia was delivered, which much to my companion’s irritation, I studied for an eternity. It was impressive but mind boggling.
We opted for the £80 tasting menu (rather than 3 courses for £65), and I asked the charismatic sommelier to recommend accompanying wines. As it transpired, this was a shrewd move. I watched as the barman poured numerous half glasses, which the sommelier rushed to our table, enthusiastically reciting tasting notes.
The ‘tasters from the chef’ were superb - a celery jelly filled with juice, to be eaten like an oyster, and a crispy carrot based stick.
The fresh creel prawns, carrot tofu, Thai coconut broth and kaffir lime leaves was accompanied by a glass of Mosel Riesling. The broth was piquant, but not for an over-sensitive palate.
The Diver-caught scallop was large, with liquorice and pumpkin puree, and yuzu dressing. Served with a glass of Macon-Verze 2004 chardonnay, it was enjoyable but not exceptional.
Next, pan fried foie gras with a chicory, blood orange and bergamot chutney. The sommelier arrived with two half glasses of Molino Moscatel , a sweet white wine from Andalucia. It was not an obvious choice and demonstrated why it was worth placing the wine selection in his hands.
The sommelier adventure continued with a glass of Austrian Gruner Veltliner to accompany Roast Brill, baby Swiss chard, maple syrup and grated nutmeg.
The only meat dish on the tasting menu was Anjou pigeon, braised salsify and toasted “sesame gomasio”, served with a Cabernet Sauvignon from Chateau Ka, Lebanon.
The white chocolate mousse, which accompanied the pineapple sorbet, was too thick in my opinion, but the hot chocolate doughnut with herb ice cream was excellent, and this Camel is not normally partial to chocolate.
The final bill was just over £300, of which £85 was accumulated by our tasting wines.
We were last to arrive at 8.30pm and almost last to leave at 11pm.
The Camel’s companion loved it but said that I grumbled throughout the evening about my seating position.
An increasing number of restaurants in London, including Aubergine, Hibiscus, The Square, Texture and of course, Gordon Ramsay’s Hospital Road, are competing for this top end of the market. Excellent food, alone, is not enough to excel.
The Greenhouse
27a Hay's Mews
London
W1J 5NX
020 7499 3331
http://www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk/greenhouse
Is Michelin starred cuisine, and good but not exceptional, wine, sufficient to justify a price tag of £150 per head? I don’t think so.
I spent an evening at The Greenhouse, by the entrance, looking directly at the bar and toilet area. The wall facing me had three glass decanters, each individually framed. A quick look and I was ready for something a little more stimulating. Fortunately the Camel’s companion eased my sore eyes.
However, apart from the occasional ‘Exorcist’ head spin, I have no idea of the ambience of The Greenhouse.
Gordon Ramsay understands guest seating and in his top restaurants gives two a round table, with both sitting side by side, looking out into the room. Other restaurants at least have mirrors so that wall facing diners feel part of the proceedings.
The Greenhouse has several round tables for two. I looked enviously at one couple, like a passenger on an old business class jumbo, stuck in the middle of a row of three, wondering how the person across the aisle had secured a window with a vacant aisle seat.
Hidden under an apartment block in London’s Mayfair, The Greenhouse is approached by a catwalk alongside the darkened windows of this minimalistic, dark varnished wood and glass dining room restaurant.
Within seconds of being seated, the champagne fairy barricaded our table with his trolley, and the smiling waiter had a glass of pink Billecart-Salmon (£16) in my companion’s hand. I asked for the wine list. An encyclopedia was delivered, which much to my companion’s irritation, I studied for an eternity. It was impressive but mind boggling.
We opted for the £80 tasting menu (rather than 3 courses for £65), and I asked the charismatic sommelier to recommend accompanying wines. As it transpired, this was a shrewd move. I watched as the barman poured numerous half glasses, which the sommelier rushed to our table, enthusiastically reciting tasting notes.
The ‘tasters from the chef’ were superb - a celery jelly filled with juice, to be eaten like an oyster, and a crispy carrot based stick.
The fresh creel prawns, carrot tofu, Thai coconut broth and kaffir lime leaves was accompanied by a glass of Mosel Riesling. The broth was piquant, but not for an over-sensitive palate.
The Diver-caught scallop was large, with liquorice and pumpkin puree, and yuzu dressing. Served with a glass of Macon-Verze 2004 chardonnay, it was enjoyable but not exceptional.
Next, pan fried foie gras with a chicory, blood orange and bergamot chutney. The sommelier arrived with two half glasses of Molino Moscatel , a sweet white wine from Andalucia. It was not an obvious choice and demonstrated why it was worth placing the wine selection in his hands.
The sommelier adventure continued with a glass of Austrian Gruner Veltliner to accompany Roast Brill, baby Swiss chard, maple syrup and grated nutmeg.
The only meat dish on the tasting menu was Anjou pigeon, braised salsify and toasted “sesame gomasio”, served with a Cabernet Sauvignon from Chateau Ka, Lebanon.
The white chocolate mousse, which accompanied the pineapple sorbet, was too thick in my opinion, but the hot chocolate doughnut with herb ice cream was excellent, and this Camel is not normally partial to chocolate.
The final bill was just over £300, of which £85 was accumulated by our tasting wines.
We were last to arrive at 8.30pm and almost last to leave at 11pm.
The Camel’s companion loved it but said that I grumbled throughout the evening about my seating position.
An increasing number of restaurants in London, including Aubergine, Hibiscus, The Square, Texture and of course, Gordon Ramsay’s Hospital Road, are competing for this top end of the market. Excellent food, alone, is not enough to excel.
The Greenhouse
27a Hay's Mews
London
W1J 5NX
020 7499 3331
http://www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk/greenhouse
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
