New York - Gramercy Tavern

Winter 2008/2009
Frank's view
Jacobean joust lost on timing

New York led the world with its skyscraper architecture.

However when it comes to medieval banqueting halls, a city, which is only a few hundred years old struggles.

Gramercy Tavern claims to recreate the look and feel of a traditional American tavern.  Pseudo Jacobean vaulted ceilings with portcullis dark wood frames and mock Tudor chandeliers, the 'olde worlde', overly oppulent, Gramercy Tavern is trying very hard.

The bar stretches the back wall of the large front ‘tavern’ room.  Entry to the formal dining room area is through one of two arches with portcullises.

Although, at first glance, the two dining areas and their menus do not seem vastly different, the price differential is huge.  The tavern room offers a 3 course menu for $35 whereas 2 courses in the dining room costs $86.

The tavern room tables are tightly packed but the dining room offers more space and Camel and companion were shown to a corner table where we could sit side by side and watch the room.

A ‘heavy’ slice of garlic pate was delivered as the ‘chef’s special’ appetiser.

To start we ordered the ‘Smoked Haddock Salad’ and ‘Hamachi with corriander’.  Hamachi is young Yellowtail Tuna.  Its presence on the menu was not surprising as chef Michael Anthony began his culinary training in Tokyo and is fluent in Japanese.

We waited for our main courses….and waited…and waited…and waited.

The waiter became edgy as my hump began to rise.  Apologies flowed as did promises of the food’s imminent arrival, just like a taxi company reassuring that “the cab will be outside any second now.”

Complimentary, or were they compensatory, glasses of wine were offered.

Eventually I got my Sea Bass with Spaghetti Squash (the squash worked well) and the camel’s companion, her Duck, accompanied by Quinoa, or was it tasteless semolina? Who cares?

We were tired and our appetites had evaporated.

As we requested the check without ordering dessert, the waiter went into freefall panic mode.

We departed, enforced to transport a giant doggy box of biscuits and petit fours.

It was all too late.

The horse had bolted.


Gramercy Tavern
42 East 20th Street
New York

+1 212 477 0777

http://www.gramercytavern.com/





 




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