London - Le Gavroche
Winter 2008/2009
Frank's view 
Go for lunch
When I read the reviews of Le Gavroche by critics Giles Coren (2003), A A Gill (2005) and Simon Hopkinson (2008), one word screamed at my wallet from each article – lunch.
How sensible.
Simon Hopkinson, of The Guardian newspaper, banged on and on until my head throbbed and my credit card wept about the ‘relative snip’ of £48 for the set lunch, including wine.
Camel and companion headed for Upper Brook Street at 7pm on a dark and dreary January evening. I had asked for a later table but was told this was the only available slot, which was odd, as no new diners entered the restaurant after 8pm and at least 20% of the tables remained vacant until we eventually departed just after 10pm.
With starters priced at around £20 and main courses nudging £40, we decided that the 8 course Menu Exceptionnel with café et Petits Fours at £95 was too tempting to resist. Served with accompanying wines raised the price to £150 per person.
Ouch!
Descending the staircase from the ground floor bar, modesty is engulfed by dark green walls as you enter a cavern of kitsch – 1970s European, a splash of Russian Czar, the antithesis of subtle, minimalist and 21st century chic.
The tables are sparse, large, and all but a few, are round, enabling couples to sit adjacent to each other. For such a potentially intimidating basement, deprived of all daylight, the atmosphere is not at all claustrophobic.
Each table has an extraordinary sculpture by French artist, Gerard Bouvier. Grotesquely created out of pieces of cutlery, these brass coloured works of cockerels, frogs and owls are available for purchase at prices ranging from €1800 to €7000.
The Menu Exceptionnel included Gavroche’s piece de resistance –
Souffle Suissesse – Cheese soufflé cooked on Double Cream.
It was utterly exquisite. A bubble of soufflé, doubled cooked and floating in a silky smooth sauce.
The banquet continued with the emphasis on dishes from the starter menu.
The one main course dish was intensely rich, slightly too much so for my palate:
Tender Braised beef in red wine, Parsnip puree, Cepes Mushrooms and Bacon.
The cheese selection is vast. Limiting oneself to a polite three or four portions is painfully torturous.
Finally two desserts, a rich chocolate truffle, followed by caramelised apple tart and vanilla ice cream.
Le Gavroche web site includes a video presented by Michel Roux in which he talks proudly about the table settings with crystal glass and polished silver. How odd that each exceptional dish was served with an under plate, garnished with a paper doily.
This is an old school establishment where manners are everything and etiquette is all. Gentlemen are required to wear jackets – they really are. The dominant male at a nearby table rose to remove his jacket and was instantly informed of the house rule.
On the subject of dominant males, this Camel’s menu included prices, the companion’s did not. I’m always intrigued as to how the waiters deal with the gay fraternity.
This was, to the best of my recollection, the most expensive meal I have financed in the UK. It was also one of the best.
Next time, I’ll go for lunch.
Le Gavroche
43 Upper Brook Street
London W1
020 7408 0881
http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/
How sensible.
Simon Hopkinson, of The Guardian newspaper, banged on and on until my head throbbed and my credit card wept about the ‘relative snip’ of £48 for the set lunch, including wine.
Camel and companion headed for Upper Brook Street at 7pm on a dark and dreary January evening. I had asked for a later table but was told this was the only available slot, which was odd, as no new diners entered the restaurant after 8pm and at least 20% of the tables remained vacant until we eventually departed just after 10pm.
With starters priced at around £20 and main courses nudging £40, we decided that the 8 course Menu Exceptionnel with café et Petits Fours at £95 was too tempting to resist. Served with accompanying wines raised the price to £150 per person.
Ouch!
Descending the staircase from the ground floor bar, modesty is engulfed by dark green walls as you enter a cavern of kitsch – 1970s European, a splash of Russian Czar, the antithesis of subtle, minimalist and 21st century chic.
The tables are sparse, large, and all but a few, are round, enabling couples to sit adjacent to each other. For such a potentially intimidating basement, deprived of all daylight, the atmosphere is not at all claustrophobic.
Each table has an extraordinary sculpture by French artist, Gerard Bouvier. Grotesquely created out of pieces of cutlery, these brass coloured works of cockerels, frogs and owls are available for purchase at prices ranging from €1800 to €7000.
The Menu Exceptionnel included Gavroche’s piece de resistance –
Souffle Suissesse – Cheese soufflé cooked on Double Cream.
It was utterly exquisite. A bubble of soufflé, doubled cooked and floating in a silky smooth sauce.
The banquet continued with the emphasis on dishes from the starter menu.
The one main course dish was intensely rich, slightly too much so for my palate:
Tender Braised beef in red wine, Parsnip puree, Cepes Mushrooms and Bacon.
The cheese selection is vast. Limiting oneself to a polite three or four portions is painfully torturous.
Finally two desserts, a rich chocolate truffle, followed by caramelised apple tart and vanilla ice cream.
Le Gavroche web site includes a video presented by Michel Roux in which he talks proudly about the table settings with crystal glass and polished silver. How odd that each exceptional dish was served with an under plate, garnished with a paper doily.
This is an old school establishment where manners are everything and etiquette is all. Gentlemen are required to wear jackets – they really are. The dominant male at a nearby table rose to remove his jacket and was instantly informed of the house rule.
On the subject of dominant males, this Camel’s menu included prices, the companion’s did not. I’m always intrigued as to how the waiters deal with the gay fraternity.
This was, to the best of my recollection, the most expensive meal I have financed in the UK. It was also one of the best.
Next time, I’ll go for lunch.
Le Gavroche
43 Upper Brook Street
London W1
020 7408 0881
http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
