Sydney - Est
Winter 07/08
Frank's view
'Faultless'
The Establishment Hotel, on George Street, a few hundred metres from The Rocks, is an unlikely looking venue for one of Sydney’s most revered restaurants. Located on the first floor, Est has its own entrance, keeping sophisticated dining clientele at a safe distance from the rowdy hotel bar below. Est was named as one of Sydney’s top restaurants by the highly respected Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2008. Whilst chef Peter Doyle and Est were awarded 3 hats (the Aussie equivalent of Michelin stars), just down George Street, Neil Perry, celebrity chef and owner of Rockpool, was allegedly spitting the dummy at being downgraded to 2 hats.
Peter Doyle has been one of Australia’s top chefs for 30 years and Est is his latest venture.
The interior design of this restaurant is outstanding, all taupe and white, and although the space is vast, the restaurant does not feel huge. The restaurant entertains a maximum of only 104 covers. It could hold considerably more, but the spacing of tables ensures that all diners have privacy.
The champagne trolley is a flash opener, with a selection of vintage and non vintage labels.
The dinner options included a seven course Tasting Menu ($155 or $250 with matching wines). We elected to choose the five course Chef’s Menu ($130), but could have selected a la carte dishes from the Chef’s Menu; Entrees at $39, Mains $53.
The dishes make the most of the finest Australian produce:
Moreton bay bug on ocean trout boudin, black fungi and snow peas, ginger - lime nage;
Crisp skin barramundi fillet on vongole, shaved cuttlefish, chilli, zucchini flowers and parsley;
Grilled fillet of black angus beef, mparrettati, asparagus and chestnut mushrooms, morel jus;
…to describe just a few.
The wine is stored in a modern art structure at one end of the restaurant, and the list is as extensive as one would expect. The entire list is published on the restaurant web site.
Whilst on the subject of the web site, it must be the least well promoted and difficult to find restaurant web site on ‘Planet Food’, but if you are considering a visit, check out the site (detailed below).
This is the closest I have seen an Australian restaurant to the dining approach of Gordon Ramsay – the extensive champagne trolley, the tasting menus and option to pick and choose, not to mention the style of cuisine.
When we mentioned Gordon Ramsay to our extraordinarily friendly waiter, he indignantly retorted, "Gordon Ramsay is a boy who is learning. Peter Doyle is the Godfather."
Est
Establishment Hotel
Level 1
252 George Strett
Sydney
9240 3010
http://www.merivale.com/establishment/est/
Peter Doyle has been one of Australia’s top chefs for 30 years and Est is his latest venture.
The interior design of this restaurant is outstanding, all taupe and white, and although the space is vast, the restaurant does not feel huge. The restaurant entertains a maximum of only 104 covers. It could hold considerably more, but the spacing of tables ensures that all diners have privacy.
The champagne trolley is a flash opener, with a selection of vintage and non vintage labels.
The dinner options included a seven course Tasting Menu ($155 or $250 with matching wines). We elected to choose the five course Chef’s Menu ($130), but could have selected a la carte dishes from the Chef’s Menu; Entrees at $39, Mains $53.
The dishes make the most of the finest Australian produce:
Moreton bay bug on ocean trout boudin, black fungi and snow peas, ginger - lime nage;
Crisp skin barramundi fillet on vongole, shaved cuttlefish, chilli, zucchini flowers and parsley;
Grilled fillet of black angus beef, mparrettati, asparagus and chestnut mushrooms, morel jus;
…to describe just a few.
The wine is stored in a modern art structure at one end of the restaurant, and the list is as extensive as one would expect. The entire list is published on the restaurant web site.
Whilst on the subject of the web site, it must be the least well promoted and difficult to find restaurant web site on ‘Planet Food’, but if you are considering a visit, check out the site (detailed below).
This is the closest I have seen an Australian restaurant to the dining approach of Gordon Ramsay – the extensive champagne trolley, the tasting menus and option to pick and choose, not to mention the style of cuisine.
When we mentioned Gordon Ramsay to our extraordinarily friendly waiter, he indignantly retorted, "Gordon Ramsay is a boy who is learning. Peter Doyle is the Godfather."
Est
Establishment Hotel
Level 1
252 George Strett
Sydney
9240 3010
http://www.merivale.com/establishment/est/
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?




