Bordeaux- Chateau Cordeillan Bages (Hotel)

Chateau Cordeillan Bages is, by all accounts, the top hotel in the Medoc wine region, which encompasses Margaux, St Julien, Paulliac and St Estephe. The hotel claims 4 star status, but perhaps the first clue to this less than luxury reality is the rate card. A Superior Room is 240 euros and a Junior Suite, 374 euros.

Built largely on one level, around a grass quadrangle, all of the rooms seem to face in towards the middle, which is a pity as the vines to the left of the hotel make a much more appealing view.

This hotel has no soul, no defined heart or meeting point. The first evening we went for a wander around the hotel and attempted to find a place to enjoy a cocktail. Within 5 minutes we were back in our room. To the left of reception are two drawing rooms leading to a terrace by the vines, which is the only area where the hotel shows real charm. The terrace is perfect for a pre dinner cocktail, but not on a Monday when the restaurant is closed.

To the right of reception, around a couple of corners, is a very odd tabled area where breakfast is served. It is odd because it straddles the corridor, with the tables on one side and the buffet on the other. It really is as if the owners couldn’t work out where to serve breakfast, and someone had the bright idea of building an extension on to a section of the corridor to widen it, then filled it with café type marbled tables.

The rooms are even more of an anomaly. I’ve seen better bathrooms in a 1970s Hilton or Holiday Inn. The walls are clad with large white tiles, similar to those one sees in a public loo. There is a nasty wall mounted hair dryer, straight from Travelodge. The flimsy plastic cups in the bathroom, carrying the Relais & Chateau crest, are an absolutely extraordinary item for this luxury hotel group to brand. What are they thinking of?

In a further schizophrenic twist, the bedroom has tasteful fabric walls, a complimentary mini bar, slippers, bath robe but a horrible wardrobe, which even Ikea would reject.

The hotel does have an outdoor swimming pool which must be heading for Olympic size in length, but very narrow. There are a few sun beds positioned beside the pool.

The reality is that Chateau Cordeillan Bages is one of the world’s best restaurants, with rooms. (See separate restaurant review).

In summary, Chateau Cordeillan Bages is a very good place to stay for a couple of nights as a base for exploring the local vineyard Chateaux, which include La Tour, Margaux, Leoville Barton, Beycheville etc etc. The hotel restaurant is a must for one night, but the  gourmet dinner on two consecutive nights may be too much for some. However the Café Lavinal, a few hundred metres away (also owned by the Lynch Bages) is excellent.

The staff  were very friendly and attentive. When you book also ask the hotel to arrange visits for you to the vineyards. You cannot just turn up and walk around the top chateaux.

One word of warning.

The weather during our visit was fabulous, but Chateau Cordeillan Bages, as a base during wet weather, would be a awful.You will wish to spend the minimum time in your room and there is nothing to do around the hotel during inclement weather, especially on a Monday when the restaurant is closed.

 
Chateau Cordeillan Bages
33250 Pauillac
Bordeaux

+33 5 56 59 24 24

http://www.cordeillanbages.com