Los Angeles - Chateau Marmont

It’s an open and shut case.

This IS the world’s number one rock and roll hotel.

Chateau Marmont may not have seen more celebrity excess and self destruction than Caligula’s boudoir, but I’m sure it’s a close run contest.

In 1982 John Belushi died of an alcohol and drugs overdose in Bungalow 3, just inside the garden gate.

Photographer Helmut Newton crashed his car in the entrance to Chateau Marmont in 2004.  The presumption is that he died of a heart attack at the wheel and hit the wall.  In a driveway where swinging a cat would endanger more than the feline’s whiskers, building up acceleration to smack a wall would be impossible, even in an Indy Car.

James Dean auditioned with Natalie Wood for ‘Rebel Without a Cause’,  Led Zeppelin rode motorbikes through the reception and Britney Spears was removed from the hotel for bad behaviour.

We checked in to Room 78, a corner suite on the top floor.  In his biography of Red Hot Chili Peppers (Fornication), Jeff Apter talks of how John Fruiscante and Anthony Kiedis moved into Room 78 in 2001, using the suite as a mini studio in which they wrote, rehearsed and even recorded the vocals for ‘By The Way’.

Built in 1929 and supposedly modelled on a French Chateau, Marmont is very loosely French inspired.  The windows, for example, are clearly American 1920s, and don’t appear to have been renewed since they were fitted.

Indeed, the whole hotel barely seems to have been touched since it was built and is very arguably in need of some TLC. I believe the word to describe such properties is ‘faded.’

No doubt, Andre Balazs, who also owns The Mercer Hotel in New York, would claim that he is maintaining the original character.  I’m sure the personality of the rooms would not be lost with a little refurbishment.

The layout of the hotel has the swimming pool, garden villas and bungalows, to the right of the driveway and valet area. Parking is underneath the hotel at ground level with the reception desk on the first floor.

The swimming pool is a good size, sheltered and surrounded by lemon trees laden with fruit. It is a welcome oasis from the bustle of Sunset Boulevard only a few feet below.

The dining garden and bar are beyond reception, as is the lounge. The whole of the reception and lounge interior is dark and not for the faint sighted.

Room 78 has just about the smallest hotel bathroom I’ve ever seen.  Perhaps body pampering was not particularly important to Hollywood’s ‘shooting up’ stars.

Kiehl toiletries were supplied, although not in generous proportion, but the towels were piled high. Surprisingly, no slippers were provided which was disappointing as the carpet looked as if it might be home to the odd squatting bug.

Space which could have been given to the bathroom had been allocated to a kitchenette, a quarter of which was taken up with a fabulous fifties O’Keefe & Merritt gas stove. The facilities were here to prepare and serve dinner for 6 people on the table in the dining area.  The absence of pans and cooking utensils suggested that aspiring guest cooks were discouraged.  I suspect the facilities were there for a hotel’s chef to utilise in a private dining environment.

There was, however, a kettle, which became white hot on the super efficient O’Keefe & Merritt, but, alas, no tea or coffee provided.

The living room area was spacious with windows opening on to two tiny terraces. The first had an impressive view across Sunset Blvd to down town LA. The second looked back over the precariously positioned homes on the side of the Hollywood Hills.

I found a photo on the web of Chili Peppers’ John Fruiscante sitting on, what I presumed to be our sofa, his feet no doubt resting on the same manky rug we had.  A large but old Phillips TV was connected to DVD and CD players.

The large desk in the room was useful and Chateau Marmont had thoughtfully provided two ipod docks, one in the living room and one in the bedroom.

Free Internet access from hotels is rare and was much appreciated.

Make sure you visit Bar Marmont, a few yards along from the hotel.  This really is a happening bar and served the most lethally potent marguerite to ever hit my blood stream.

We made good use of the concierge desk for restaurant reservations and found Bill Duggan, in particular, very helpful.  He’s worth contacting in advance of your arrival.

Chateau Marmont is quiet simply legendary and an essential place to stay or, at least visit, if you are in Hollywood. It will not be everyone’s poison and there are certainly many contrasting alternatives, not least The Mondrian a few hundred yards along Sunset.

There are also the many top hotels in nearby by Beverly Hills including The Four Seasons,  The Peninsula  and  The Beverly Wilshire.

If your dream car is a 1950’s Karmann Ghia or a 1960s Mercedes SL, Chateau Marmont is absolutely for you.

Chateau Marmont
8221 Sunset Boulevard
West Hollywood

001 323 656 1010

http://www.chateaumarmont.com/