Russell Crowe, a Convent & The Count of Monte Cristo - Part II (Aix-en-Provence & Marseille)
Autumn 2009
Aix-en-Provence prides itself in being the birthplace of the post-impressionist Paul Cezanne. It’s not the prettiest town in the paint-box but it does sit on the edge of the Luberon, the stunning picture postcard region made famous by Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence, and more recently in the Ridley Scott / Russell Crowe movie, A Good Year, which was filmed there.
Villa Gallici, close to the centre of Aix, is probably the best hotel in the area. Villa Gallici is the antithesis of minimalism. Louis XIV would have loved it. Described in the brochure as ‘sumptuous’, the décor throughout is gauche and loud. Our suite was liberally splattered with red and gold fabric. In fact everything was covered with the same fabric; the chairs, the walls, the bed, even the board behind the bed.
The restaurant is a very grown up affair. Diners are seated in armchairs at low tables (not recommended by digestion doctors). The over evolved décor is not reflected in the cuisine which is refreshingly simple and carefully presented. At €30 for a starter, €50 for a main or €90 for three courses the restaurant is not overly expensive for this standard of hotel in France. Our garden suite with terrace was €550, but that was on an Amex deal. The published rate is around €800. It’s not a bargain, but there again, Relais & Chateaux rarely is.
If you really want to push the boat out drive down to Marseille for a final fling which will send your credit card into meltdown. Start by lunching at Restaurant Miramar in the old port. Miramar is reputed to serve one of the best bouillabaisses in France. To reinforce this accolade, Miramar has secured bouillabaisse.com as its web address; very clever, except that most people can’t spell bouillabaisse.
The waiter flashed an impressive platter of fish and seafood then a plate of croutons, rouille, and garlic cloves arrived, followed by a dense fish soup, without fish. The procedure is to rub the garlic on the croutons, add rouille, and enjoy the soup. We looked longingly at the fish, which was now monitoring our progress from a nearby table, and would only be served when we had emptied our bowls. At €55 per person, the bouillabaisse was no bargain.
Spend your last night at Le Petit Nice near the old port. The sea is on two sides and the hotel looks out to Chateau D’If, on the island made famous by Alexander Dumas’ tale, ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’.
Le Petit Nice is owned by 3 Michelin Star chef, Gerald Passedat and is essentially about his restaurant which offers three set dinner menus. The ten course Menu Passedat is a fair compromise between the eight course Menu Decouverte and the belly busting fourteen courses of the Menu Evolution.
The feast commences with Cinq amuse-bouches gourmands, five delicate tastes to stimulate the palate. Four varied fish and sea food dishes follow, one meat dish (lamb), two desserts and finally, a selection of exquisite Mignardises Maison (petit fours). At €155, this tasting menu might seem expensive, but this is ‘service compris’, which brings the real price down to around €130.
Crawl upstairs to the Marcel Pagnol suite on the corner of the hotel which has a total of six large windows (4 towards facing directly out to Monte Cristo island) and fall asleep to the sound of the waves crashing against the rocks below.
Next morning, after a leisurely breakfast, make the short drive to Marseille airport, drop off the convertible and, sadly, head home.
Villa Gallici, close to the centre of Aix, is probably the best hotel in the area. Villa Gallici is the antithesis of minimalism. Louis XIV would have loved it. Described in the brochure as ‘sumptuous’, the décor throughout is gauche and loud. Our suite was liberally splattered with red and gold fabric. In fact everything was covered with the same fabric; the chairs, the walls, the bed, even the board behind the bed.
The restaurant is a very grown up affair. Diners are seated in armchairs at low tables (not recommended by digestion doctors). The over evolved décor is not reflected in the cuisine which is refreshingly simple and carefully presented. At €30 for a starter, €50 for a main or €90 for three courses the restaurant is not overly expensive for this standard of hotel in France. Our garden suite with terrace was €550, but that was on an Amex deal. The published rate is around €800. It’s not a bargain, but there again, Relais & Chateaux rarely is.
If you really want to push the boat out drive down to Marseille for a final fling which will send your credit card into meltdown. Start by lunching at Restaurant Miramar in the old port. Miramar is reputed to serve one of the best bouillabaisses in France. To reinforce this accolade, Miramar has secured bouillabaisse.com as its web address; very clever, except that most people can’t spell bouillabaisse.
The waiter flashed an impressive platter of fish and seafood then a plate of croutons, rouille, and garlic cloves arrived, followed by a dense fish soup, without fish. The procedure is to rub the garlic on the croutons, add rouille, and enjoy the soup. We looked longingly at the fish, which was now monitoring our progress from a nearby table, and would only be served when we had emptied our bowls. At €55 per person, the bouillabaisse was no bargain.
Spend your last night at Le Petit Nice near the old port. The sea is on two sides and the hotel looks out to Chateau D’If, on the island made famous by Alexander Dumas’ tale, ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’.
Le Petit Nice is owned by 3 Michelin Star chef, Gerald Passedat and is essentially about his restaurant which offers three set dinner menus. The ten course Menu Passedat is a fair compromise between the eight course Menu Decouverte and the belly busting fourteen courses of the Menu Evolution.
The feast commences with Cinq amuse-bouches gourmands, five delicate tastes to stimulate the palate. Four varied fish and sea food dishes follow, one meat dish (lamb), two desserts and finally, a selection of exquisite Mignardises Maison (petit fours). At €155, this tasting menu might seem expensive, but this is ‘service compris’, which brings the real price down to around €130.
Crawl upstairs to the Marcel Pagnol suite on the corner of the hotel which has a total of six large windows (4 towards facing directly out to Monte Cristo island) and fall asleep to the sound of the waves crashing against the rocks below.
Next morning, after a leisurely breakfast, make the short drive to Marseille airport, drop off the convertible and, sadly, head home.
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
