Mykonos - Caprice

Like druids on mid summer’s dawn, tourists and locals alike stop to gaze at the setting sun, off the coast of Mykonos. Even the waiters will take a peek as they deliver lush cocktails, laden with fresh fruit, to their camera happy patrons.

There is only one place to take part in this daily ritual and that is Caprice, the Stonehenge of Mykonos. Positioned on the edge of the sea with the Mykonos windmills to the left and the islands ahead, Caprice is as every bit as special as the restaurant reviews will tell you it is.

The brave take the chairs outside, pinned against the building, separated only from waves crashing against the sea wall by the narrowest of paths and an endless line of tourists. It is truly remarkable that each day doesn’t see at least one passer by hit the surf.

Caprice opens at 6.30pm and the best seats inside go quickly. These are the sofa around the window in the main bar and the two tables nearest the small door in the middle bar.

Be careful how you dress if you intend to stay for a prolonged drinking session. There is no way of getting into the loos without either climbing into the washbasin or standing on the loo seat.

The sound system is excellent, but very loud in the main bar, and the people, a mix of half dressed from the beach and half sequined for a night on the town.

Having arrived early to enjoy a frozen lemon margarita, or indeed a quarter bottle of Veuve Cliquot for 40 Euros, your view is increasingly obliterated as human nature swings into selfish mode. On one occasion, a lump in fluorescent pink crimplene positioned itself perfectly in the centre of the doorway. Her small stature was of no advantage to any of us behind as the sun was low and about to bid adieu.

On the subject of fat ladies, most of them seem to come off the many cruise ships which dock by Hora each day. The locals hate them. One trader suggested to us that if someone is on a 10 day cruise which costs 540 euros they are unlikely to buy anything more than a souvenir key ring whilst clogging up the town.

On a final note we were told of the incident a month or so ago when a very large cruise liner dropped anchor directly between the sun and Caprice. I guess whoever rules the waves….

Caprice
Little Venice
Hora
Mykonos

www.caprice.gr