New York - 21 Club
Summer 2007
Frank's view 
This is the bastion of stuffy New York old society. I suspect all the waiters have worked here as man and boy, forever, and they are not young. In an intolerant way they all know better than each other and their job is far more important than their counterparts. Take the sommelier. He really took himself seriously with a silver bowl on a chain around his neck. Taking a large slurp of the wine we had ordered, he did not seem terribly impressed, but then again it was one of the less expensive bottles in the wine list (at $100).
The restaurant itself is full of the well heeled and well dressed. You have to wear a jacket and tie, and ‘sneakers’ are strictly forbidden. Considering the clientele, the décor is a bit of a surprise. Red and white checked table cloths (very ‘hill-billy’) and the ceiling is adorned with Tonka Trucks, baseball helmets, hard hats and bits memorabilia. Seating is comfortable, leather sofas and banquettes.
The food is good, straight forward American food, delicious and well presented. However, my starter had a hint of 1970’s “Essex wedding food”. It was definitely cold coronation chicken soup!
The bold print suggestion of adding a 20% tip to your bill was the least subtle approach to gratuity grabbing I have ever seen. However, looking around at the feuding, fiercesome waiters, I didn’t fancy trying to leave without obliging. This restaurant is well worth a visit.
The 21 Club
21 West 52nd Street
New York
+1 212 582 7200
Be Frank: agree or disagree? What do you think?
